时尚准妈妈怀孕时该对待自己小腹

AT THE ACADEMY AWARDS earlier this month, Kerry Washington, the star of the ABC-TV series 'Scandal,' wore a lilac Jason Wu gown, tailor-made to accommodate what she playfully called her little 'accessory'-a growing baby bump.

在3月份早些时候举行的奥斯卡金像奖颁奖典礼(Academy Awards)上，美国广播公司(ABC)电视剧《丑闻》(Scandal)中的明星凯丽・华盛顿(Kerry Washington)穿了一条吴季刚(Jason Wu)设计的淡紫色礼服，衣服根据她日渐隆起的小腹量身定制，华盛顿戏称大肚子是自己的小“配饰”。

These days, that's just how stylish mothers-to-be are treating their bellies when it comes to dressing: as an exciting accouterment rather than an insurmountable style obstacle. These resourceful women are mixing non-maternity pieces from surprisingly pregnancy-friendly labels such as Alexander Wang and Rick Owens with a chicer-than-ever crop of maternity brands.

如今，时尚准妈妈在穿衣服时就是这样对待自己的小腹的：把它当成是有趣的装饰，而不是阻碍时尚的麻烦。这些聪明的准妈妈们把亚历山大・王(Alexander Wang)和瑞克・欧文斯(Rick Owens)等特别照顾孕妇需求品牌的非孕妇单品和孕妇装品牌的时髦剪裁进行混搭。

'When you're pregnant, your body is changing every day. The fashion just has to be able to evolve to fit that,' said Ms. Washington. In addition to custom-designed gowns from Thakoon and Balenciaga, the actress has worn maternity pieces, like a silk charmeuse tuxedo from the very un-maternity maternity label Hatch, as well as designer dresses she buys in large sizes and alters, like an A-line shift by Tory Burch and a cerulean Calvin Klein Collection cocktail number with a peek-a-boo shoulder. 'Pregnant or not, your tailor is your best friend,' said Erin Walsh, Ms. Washington's stylist, who added that the key to a flattering alteration (besides accommodating a growing midsection) is to accentuate the finer points of one's figure-whether wrists, cleavage or legs.

华盛顿说：“怀孕的时候，你的身体每天都在变化。时尚必须能够不断演变来适应这种变化。”除了塔库恩(Thakoon)和巴黎世家(Balenciaga)的定制礼服，她还穿孕妇装，比如非常不像孕妇装的孕妇装品牌Hatch的一套查米尤绉缎燕尾服，她还会买大号的名牌裙子来修改，比如Tory Burch的一条宽松连身裙和 Calvin Klein Collection的一件露肩天蓝色鸡尾酒会装。华盛顿的造型师埃琳・沃尔什(Erin Walsh)说：“无论是否怀孕，你的裁缝师都是你最好的朋友。”她还说，除了适合越来越大的肚子，改出好衣服的关键在于突出身体的细节――比如手腕、乳沟或者小腿。

In the age of the Best-Dressed Baby Bump, it's hard to fathom that Lucille Ball caused a scandal when she appeared pregnant on 'I Love Lucy,' in 1952, or that Grace Kelly used her Hermès bag to shield her growing body from the press. 'Things have changed so much over the last few decades,' said Violet Gaynor, a senior fashion editor at Instyle.com and co-founder of the Glow, a website that features at-home interviews with chic mothers like actress Jemima Kirke and Manhattan boutique owner Maryam Nassir Zadeh. Ms. Gaynor and her co-founder, Kelly Stuart, will be releasing the Glow's first book in April. 'There's so much more of a celebration about being pregnant,' she added, 'and more of a focus on stylish motherhood.' Websites like the Glow offer mothers plenty of fashion inspiration-often with shoppable links.

在比拼最佳孕妇着装的年代，很难想像1952年露西尔・鲍尔(Lucille Ball)怀着身孕出现在《我爱露西》(I Love Lucy)中会引发丑闻，也很难理解格蕾斯・凯丽(Grace Kelly)会在媒体面前用她的爱马仕(Herms)手袋遮住日渐隆起的肚子。Instyle.com高级时尚编辑及Glow网站联合创始人维奥莱特・盖纳(Violet Gaynor)说：“这几十年来变化太大了。”Glow上有很多对时尚妈妈所作的家庭采访，比如演员杰米玛・科克(Jemima Kirke)和曼哈顿精品店店主玛丽亚姆・纳西尔・扎德(Maryam Nassir Zadeh)。盖纳和她的联合创始人凯丽・斯图尔特(Kelly Stuart)将会在4月发布Glow的第一本书。她说：“现在怀孕更多是一种庆祝，更多的关注点在时尚备孕。”Glow这样的网站会为孕妇提供大量时尚灵感――通常都会有购物链接。

As the average age of first-time mothers continues to climb and the number of women having children in their 30s and 40s rises, ladies with a well-developed sense of fashion see no reason to sacrifice personal style when they're expecting. And the fashion industry is responding.

随着首次怀孕女性的平均年龄持续增大，三四十岁怀孕女性的人数越来越多，有着成熟时尚感的女性认为怀孕时没有理由牺牲掉个人着装风格。时尚行业也在做出回应。

'There is this group of women who have more disposable income to spend. They have their own identity and style and are really looking to preserve that,' said Courtney Klein, a former partner at a Manhattan digital agency who recently launched Storq, a collection of layerable, curve-hugging basics designed to fit into women's existing wardrobes-not replace them altogether. Storq's stretchy modal pieces-skirt, dress, leggings, tank top-can be purchased separately, or as a complete set for $195, on the brand's website. Ms. Klein, who is 28 weeks pregnant herself, has already shipped orders to 30 states.

曼哈顿某数字广告公司前合伙人考特妮・克莱恩(Courtney Klein)说：“有一群女性有用不完的可支配收入。她们有自己的身份和风格，而且非常希望能保持。”克莱恩最近推出了可分层穿的紧身基本款服装品牌Storq，这些衣服旨在融入女性现有的衣橱，而非取代所有的衣服。在Storq的网站上，弹性莫代尔单品――半身裙、连身裙、打底裤、背心――可以分开购买，也可以以195美元的价格购买整套。克莱恩自己已怀孕28周，公司的订单已经发往了30个州。

Ms. Klein is just one of the entrepreneurs helping to rewrite the script for pregnancy dressing. Ariane Goldman, who founded the label Hatch in 2011, said the word 'maternity' is taboo in her office. 'I think all of us just associate 'maternity' with disposable pieces that will get you through this icky stage and that you'll never want to wear again,' said Ms. Goldman. Instead, Hatch aims to provide pieces-at prices similar to what one may pay at, say, A Pea in the Pod, where many dresses hover around the $200 mark-that will live on in a woman's wardrobe after pregnancy. The appeal of Hatch's silky jumpsuits, gaberdine trenches and flowing dresses is apparent, whether a customer is pregnant or not.

克莱恩仅仅是众多帮助重组孕妇装行业格局的创业家中的一位而已。2011年创立Hatch品牌的阿里亚纳・戈德曼(Ariane Goldman)说，“怀孕”这个词在她的办公室是禁忌。戈德曼说：“我觉得大家都把‘怀孕’和一次性衣服联系起来了，认为这些衣服只是帮你度过这个难熬的阶段，然后就再也不会穿了。”而Hatch则是为女性提供能在孕期结束后继续留在衣橱里的衣服，其价格和孕妇装品牌A Pea in the Pod差不多，该品牌的很多衣服都在200美元左右。无论怀孕与否，Hatch真丝连体衣、华达呢风衣和飘逸长裙的吸引力都是显而易见的。

Ms. Gaynor said the fashionable mothers she has featured on the Glow taught her the value of an 'anything goes' approach. 'They like to find what works for them and just go with it,' she said, 'even if it's not a traditional approach to maternity.' For Ms. Gaynor, whose daughter was born last summer, that meant not only investing in the ubiquitous J. Brand maternity jeans, but resurrecting favorite pieces from her closet, like a generously cut Emilio Pucci dress that once belonged to her grandmother. Another of her favorite looks was a long white Alexander Wang slip dress, which she bought a few sizes too big, that wraps under the bust.

盖纳说，Glow上的时尚准妈妈们让她知道了“随意搭”穿衣风格的价值。于去年夏天生下女儿的她说：“她们喜欢研究自己穿什么好，然后就会那样穿，即使那并不是传统的孕妇着装。”对盖纳来说，这意味着不光要买普适的J. Brand孕妇牛仔裤，还要从衣橱里挖出自己最喜欢的衣服，比如曾经属于祖母的一条剪裁宽松的璞琪(Emilio Pucci)连身裙。她最喜欢的装扮还有一条亚历山大・王的裹胸吊带裙，这条裙子她买大好几个尺码。

'There's something reassuring about still being able to shop in a regular store when you're pregnant,' said Meredith Melling, who recently left her longtime post as a Vogue editor to co-found the fashion consultancy firm La Marque. Ms. Melling, whose second child is due this weekend, said she has relied on American Apparel unitards and oversize cardigans, as well as items from Zara, which she buys big and has tailored to fit her growing body. For special events, Ms. Melling swears by vintage clothing. Unlike with current-season wares, she said, there are no preconceptions about styling or fit and little risk of another (un-pregnant) woman appearing in the same dress. However, for the very special occasion of the La Marque launch in January, Ms. Melling wore a current Marc Jacobs dress with a drop-waist-a universally flattering silhouette for party-going pregnant gals. 'It was a way to feel a bit more elevated, like my former fashion self,' she said.

梅雷迪思・梅林(Meredith Melling)最近刚辞掉做了很久的《时尚》(Vogue)编辑工作，与他人合伙创立了时尚咨询公司La Marque。她说：“怀孕的时候还能在普通商店里买衣服，给人一种很安心的感觉。”第二个孩子刚刚出生的梅林说，她喜欢American Apparel的连体紧身衣和大号开衫，还有Zara的单品，她会买大号，然后进行修改，以适应自己的体型变化。参加特殊活动时，梅林很信赖复古服装。她说，和当季时装不同，复古风格没有款式或合身的先入之见，而且与其他（未怀孕）女士穿同一条裙子的可能性也不大。不过，在1月份La Marque成立的特殊场合，梅林穿了一条当季的马克・雅各布斯(Marc Jacobs)低腰裙――这种款式对参加派对的孕妇来说很讨喜。她说：“这样会让自己觉得更高贵些，就像以前那个时尚的自己。”

Kate Davidson Hudson, co-founder of the luxury accessories website Editorialist, recently traveled to Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks while she was more than five months into her pregnancy. She found herself packing pieces from designers who favor boxier shapes, including a snakeskin-printed shift dress from Stella McCartney. 'There are ways to play around with sizing with contemporary and designer brands so you still feel like yourself, but don't look like a sausage squeezed into a runway look,' said Ms. Davidson Hudson, adding that it's better to wear more fitted items as your bump grows, counterintuitive as it may seem. 'You almost need something body-con when you get to seven or eight months, to define the belly,' she said. A body-skimming knit dress from the designer Rick Owens that had languished in her closet for seasons proved pivotal during her first pregnancy, in 2011. In addition to his edgy aesthetic and penchant for leather, Mr. Owens is known for his neutral color palette and use of forgiving fabrics.

奢侈配饰网站Editorialist联合创始人凯特・戴维德森・赫德森(Kate Davidson Hudson)最近怀着五个多月的身孕去米兰和巴黎参加时装周。她发现自己选择了偏爱箱型款式的设计师的作品，包括斯特拉・麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)的一条蛇皮图案宽松直筒连衣裙。她说：“有很多方式可以对当代和设计师品牌的东西进行发挥，从而让自己感到自信，但不要弄得像一根香肠塞进T台时装里一样。”她说随着肚子越来越大，穿衣服最好越来越合身，这点看似违背常理。她说：“到了七八个月的时候差不多就需要贴身的衣服了，好让肚子的轮廓显现出来。”她有一件设计师瑞克・欧文斯设计的修身针织连衣裙，已经闲置在衣橱好几年了。结果这条裙子在她2011年第一次怀孕期间起到了关键作用。除了敏锐的审美和对真皮的偏爱，欧文斯还以中性色系和常用宽松面料而闻名。

Laure Heriard Dubreuil, founding partner of the Miami boutique the Webster, is also a fan of Mr. Owens, as well as Azzedine Alaïa bodysuits, for expecting moms. 'I learned that it's better to wear tighter clothes,' said Ms. Heriard Dubreuil, citing a particularly ill-advised oversize gown that made her feel frumpy at a formal event. 'Most of [Owens's] pants or skirts have elastic bands, so you can wear them low-waist,' added Ms. Heriard Dubreuil, whose son was born in January. 'The drop crotch of his pants also works well, so you have a cool look.'

迈阿密Webster精品店创始合伙人劳雷・埃里亚尔・迪布勒伊(Laure Heriard Dubreuil)也是欧文斯的粉丝，她也很喜欢阿瑟丁・阿拉亚(Azzedine Alaia)的紧身衣。她说：“我听说最好是穿紧一点的衣服。”她提到有一次参加正式活动时，听了别人糟糕的建议穿了一件大号裙子，最后让自己觉得很上不了台面。她说：“欧文斯大多数的裤子或裙子都有松紧带，所以可以低腰穿。低裆剪裁的裤子也很不错，会显得很酷。” 埃里亚尔・迪布勒伊1月份生了一个儿子。

Slip dresses are another of Ms. Heriard Dubreuil's go-tos. After falling in love with a long bias-cut version she found at C. Madeleine's, a vintage store in Miami, she had her tailor reproduce it in several other colors. She wore the original (and her copies) under a Balenciaga leather jacket or long cardigan from Acne. 'They are perfect when you're pregnant, because your cleavage looks beautiful and you show your belly,' she said.

吊带裙也是埃里亚尔・迪布勒伊喜欢的装扮。她在迈阿密古着店C. Madeleine's发现了一条斜线剪裁的吊带长裙后非常喜欢，于是让自己的裁缝用好几种颜色仿制了同款。她里面穿着这条裙子（以及仿制的那几条），外面穿巴黎世家的皮夹克或者Acne的长羊毛开衫。她说：“怀孕的时候这样穿很完美，因为你的乳沟看起来很美，而且肚子也显出来了。”

Looking good may be directly correlated to feeling great, but so is being physically comfortable-especially in your third trimester. Nadiyah Bradshaw-Spencer-a production director for the Manhattan clothing label Suno-is due this month with her first baby. She's long since abandoned her suede Nicholas Kirkwood stilettos in favor of ankle boots from the same designer with a small, foot-friendly block heel. Actress Ms. Washington appreciates comfort as well. 'It's been fun to explore how to fuse comfort and fashion in a different way,' she said. 'That's why tailoring is so important.'

穿着漂亮可能会让自己感觉很好，但身体的舒服也同样重要――尤其是在最后三个月的时候。曼哈顿时装品牌Suno生产总监纳迪娅・布拉德肖－斯宾塞(Nadiyah Bradshaw-Spencer)第一个孩子的预产期是三月份。她早就抛弃了那双小山羊皮的Nicholas Kirkwood细高跟鞋，改穿同样品牌但穿起来更舒服的粗跟及踝靴。演员华盛顿也很注重舒适度。她说：“探索将舒适和时尚结合起来的不同方式很好玩，这就是为何剪裁如此重要。”

Ms. Heriard Dubreuil, of the Webster, made concessions to comfort during pregnancy too, swapping her heels for sneakers from Pierre Hardy, and ditching her heavy bags for Olympia Le Tan clutches. As she prepared recently to travel to Paris for Fashion Week with her son, the new mother said she was packing those sneakers, but that the Olympia Le Tan clutches were staying at home. 'Unfortunately,' said Ms. Heriard Dubreuil, 'they can't fit the diapers.'

Webster的埃里亚尔・迪布勒伊在怀孕期间也对舒适做出了妥协，她把高跟鞋换成了皮埃尔・哈迪(Pierre Hardy)的球鞋，沉甸甸的大包也换成了Olympia Le Tan小手包。最近准备带儿子参加巴黎时尚周时，这位新妈妈说她带上了那些球鞋，但把Olympia Le Tan手包留在了家里。她说：“可惜这些手包装不下尿布。