H&M现在成了二手市场的抢手货

As fast-fashion giant H&M (HMb.ST) pushes more designer tie-ups, some consumers are eschewing the long lines outside stores to buy the looks in the fast-growing resale market.

随着快时尚巨头H&M与更多的设计师展开合作，一些消费者不再在H&M门店外排长队，而是在快速增长的转售市场购买同款服装。

H&M has released 15 designer and brand collaboration collections to date in 2019 compared to 11 in the whole of last year.

到目前为止，H&M在2019年已经发布了15个与设计师和品牌合作的系列产品，而去年H&M全年发布了11个合作系列产品。

The latest is its collection of looks crafted in collaboration with Italian designer Giambattista Valli. Most pieces were sold out on H&M websites across Europe hours after launch on Thursday, including a ruffled red tulle evening gown priced at $549 and worn by model Kendall Jenner in H&M’s high-profile ad campaign.

最新的合作系列是它与意大利设计师詹巴蒂斯塔· 瓦利合作设计的产品。周四在H&M发布新品几个小时后，欧洲各地的H&M网站上的新品就销售一空，其中包括一件褶饰红色薄纱晚礼服，其标价为549美元。模特肯达尔·詹娜曾在H&M高调的广告宣传活动中穿过这件晚礼服。

But another marker for products’ desirability is the resale market online. H&M restricted the sale of the Giambattista Valli collection to one of each item to stop shoppers buying clothes to immediately resell.

而另一个产品备受欢迎的标志是网上的转售市场。H&M将詹巴蒂斯塔· 瓦利系列的销售设定为一种产品限买一件，以阻止消费者购买衣服后立即转售。

“We are fundamentally positive about a secondhand market,” H&M Creative Designer Ann-Sofie Johansson, who works on designer alliances, told one foreign news agency in an interview.

H&M创意设计师兼设计师联盟成员安-苏菲·约翰逊在接受外媒采访时表示：“我们对二手市场基本上持乐观态度。”

“It’s just when someone makes a business out of it that we don’t like it,” she said, referring to the practice of buying at the retail price and then flipping to make a profit, rather than selling pre-worn items at a later date.

“只是当有人利用它做生意时，我们不喜欢这种方式，”她说道。她指的是按零售价购买，然后转手获利的做法，而不是在之后出售旧衣服。

At online fashion marketplace Poshmark, items from H&M’s Giambattista Valli micro collection, released earlier this year before Thursday’s main launch, sell for around five times more than the eponymous designer label itself, Poshmark said.

在线时尚市场Poshmark（二手服装电商平台）表示，H&M与詹巴蒂斯塔· 瓦利于今年早些时候发布的合作产品的售价是同名设计师品牌产品的五倍左右，之后其合作产品于周四正式发布。

A long pink silk dress from that collection sold for $475 in May, shortly after it went on sale in H&M stores at a retail price of $299, one Poshmark listing showed.

据Poshmark的一份清单显示，该系列的一件粉色丝绸长裙今年5月的售价为475美元，而不久后其在H&M门店的零售价变为299美元。

Meanwhile, a Giambattista Valli shift dress from the designer’s own ready-to-wear line is listed for less than $200 on California-based resale marketplace Tradesy - considerably less than the retail price of the H&M collaboration pieces - said Randi Eichenbaum, vice president of Tradesy product management.

与此同时，在总部位于加利福尼亚的转手市场Tradesy（一家出售二手设计师服装的时尚网站）上，设计师詹巴蒂斯塔· 瓦利自有成衣品牌的一件直筒连衣裙的售价不足200美元，远低于H&M合作款的零售价，Tradesy产品管理副总裁兰迪·艾肯鲍姆说道。

On average, pieces from H&M collaborations sell 22 percent faster than pieces from brands’ main labels, said luxury resale platform The RealReal, although some alliances are more highly-sought-after than others.

奢侈品转售平台The RealReal表示，通常H&M合作款服装比品牌方主品牌服装的销售速度快22%，不过一些合作品牌比其他品牌更受欢迎。