为重获品牌声望 寇驰从北美商场大规模撤出

Coach is going First Class.

寇驰要走高端路线。

The leather-goods maker will no longer sell its handbags and purses at some "lower volume" department stores, the company announced Tuesday. The move comes in response to the brand's perceived diluted appeal to wealthier shoppers amid mass market access.

皮件制造商寇驰本周二宣布，将停止在“低端”的百货商店出售其手袋和钱包。此举是寇驰感到其产品在大众化商场出售，致使对有钱人的吸引力被削弱而做出的反应。

According to Tuesday's announcement, Coach will stop selling to around 250 locations in North America as of 2017, and also strictly control any discounts that department stores can offer.

根据周二的公告，2017年寇驰将在北美的约250个销售点停止销售，并且严格控制百货公司可以提供的任何折扣。

"While we understand that customers may use department stores for trial and shopping across brands, the high level of promotional impressions created negatively impacts our long-term brand health," said Chief Executive Victor Luis during a conference call with analysts this week.

本周，寇驰首席执行官维克多•路易斯在与分析师的一次电话会议中表示：“尽管我们理解客户可在百货公司的不同品牌之间进行试用及购买，深刻的促销印象对我们品牌的长期健康产生了负面影响。”

Once a category crusher, the 75-year-old company was forced to rethink its strategy in 2017 after reporting four straight quarterly losses, with shares falling a total of 39 percent that year.

这个拥有75年历史的公司曾是行业老大， 2017年却连续四个季度报告亏损且股价下跌39%，不得不重新考虑其品牌战略。

Those losses were partially attributed to the fact that Coach's loyal clientele had increasingly turned up its nose at the once-prestigious brand, whose less pricey CC line has been purchased in droves by younger consumers at steep discounts in malls and outlets.

这些亏损部分是因为，寇驰的忠实客户已经越来越对这个曾经著名的品牌嗤之以鼻。在各大商场和奥特莱斯，其相对低廉的CC系列产品因大幅度的折扣被成群结队的年轻消费者买走。

After the appointment of Stuart Vevers as executive creative director in 2013, Coach started a "re-platforming" of its brand. The company closed down one-fifth of its North American retail stores and renovated high-traffic, high-value stores (such as Rodeo Drive) to exude "warmth" and "modern luxury," while returning to the company's original horse and coach logo — along with its upper crust equestrian connotations.

2013年，斯图尔特•维佛斯被任命为执行创意总监后，寇驰开始其品牌的“平台再造”。寇驰关闭了北美零售店的五分之一，并整修了其高流量、高价值的专卖店（如罗迪欧大道店），以彰显其“温暖”和“现代奢华”的风格，并重新使用寇驰原来的马和四轮马车的标志——及其上流社会座驾的内涵。

The company also cut 150 jobs and started to phase out its lower-priced purses and handbag lines.

该公司还削减了150个工作岗位，并开始逐步淘汰其价格较低的钱包和手袋产品线。

The strategy seems to be working. Business has picked up, with sales soaring by 15 percent this quarter — demonstrating that consumers are buying in to the renewed cachet.

该战略似乎起了作用。本季度寇驰的业务明显好转，销量飙升了15%——这证明对于其重新建立的声望，消费者很买账。