衬衣成了女人的华丽时装

The classic masculine button-down has this season been given a feminine twist. Spring/summer catwalks introduced shirting with new architectural proportions: strict peplums or sculptural, cut-out details tied up with ribbons. “Mensy” shirts were chopped into a severe crop and decorated with asymmetrical ruffles.

这个春夏时装季，经典款领扣式男衬衣被设计师赋予了女性风情。各个春夏季时装秀场推出了呈现全新比例结构关系的衬衣：腰部饰裙以及系着丝带的雕花图案比比皆是。男款衬衣被翻改成用非对称皱褶装点的女性风格装束。

What was once just a building block of a woman’s wardrobe has been remade as the focal point. “The great thing about shirting is that it goes with jeans, and jeans are probably the most modern, functional garment that ever existed,” says designer Jonathan Anderson whose six-piece JW Anderson x Net-a-Porter capsule launched last month.

昔日女性装束的寻常角色如今摇身一变，成为时尚界众目睽睽的焦点。“衬衣的妙用就是它能随意搭配各种牛仔装，而牛仔装或许是时装界有史以来最时髦、功能最为多样的装束。”设计师乔纳森•安德森(Jonathan Anderson)这样说道。不久前，他与Net-a-Porter合作推出了JW Anderson六件单品“混搭装”(capsule)。

The collection elevates shirting to new levels: pieces include an off-the-shoulder, loose top with a sweetheart neckline and superfine spaghetti straps, and a one-shouldered pinstripe bustier with a sculpted peplum. For the designer, taking a timeless piece as a basis for a directional collection makes the pieces easily wearable. “I wanted to propose items customers would be able to combine with their actual wardrobe,” says Anderson.

该系列把衬衣提升至全新的高度：单件装中就包括了鸡心形领口与精制细吊带的宽松型露肩衬衫，配有雕花款腰部饰裙、一头露香肩的细条纹式束身胸衣。在设计师安德森看来：把适合各时尚季穿的衬衫作为设计引领风尚系列的基础，各单品衬衣于是顺理成章成了百搭装。“我希望所推出的衬衣是消费者心悦诚服的百搭装。”安德森说。

Elsewhere this spring, there are loosely-tailored tie-waisted versions at Joseph and balloon-sleeved styles at Céline. For Sarah Rutson, vice-president for global buying at Net-a-Porter, shirting’s renaissance is no surprise. It’s the “backbone of a woman’s wardrobe”, she says. The site’s shirting category offers styles from 106 designers, and that’s only likely to increase, with shirts a feature on the AW16 catwalks, seen at, among others, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and 1205.

Joseph与Céline等其它品牌在这个春夏时装季分别推出了腰部系结式宽松衬衣与肥袖款衬衣。Net-a-Porter全球采购部副总裁莎拉•罗森(Sarah Rutson)说，衬衣的“东山再起”完全在预料之中。衬衣是“女妆之定海神针”，她说。Net-a-Porter网店上的衬衣来自106位设计师，而且，随着衬衣成为2016秋冬季时装秀（Preen by Thornton Bregazzi与1205等众多品牌就是明证）的一道亮丽风景线，Net-a-Porter上网销售的衬衣品牌只会越来越多。

This month meanwhile sees the launch of MatchesFashion.com’s shirting collaboration with Joseph Altuzarra: an exclusive five-piece collection born out of the fact that the designer’s shirt-dresses were forever selling out on the site.

与此同时， MatchesFashion.com将推出与设计师约瑟夫•奥图扎拉(Joseph Al¬tu¬zarra)合推的衬衣：这个限量版五件套系列的横空出世，源于后者设计的礼服衬衣在MatchesFashion.com网店总是供不应求。

This new focus on the staple is great news for shirting brands too. When Central Saint Martins graduates Matthew Harding and Levi Palmer founded their label Palmer Harding in 2017, they homed in on shirts as they felt it was good to have a niche. “Rather than trying to build everything at once, specialising in one garment allowed us space for constant refinement,” says Harding.

消费者关注销路稳定的产品，对于各大品牌而言同样是重大利好。毕业于中央圣马丁艺术学院(Central Saint Martins)的马修•哈丁(Matthew Harding)与莱维•帕尔默(Levi Palmer)于2017年合创Palmer Harding品牌时，他们把目标投向了衬衣，因为他们认为创建这个细分行业前景广阔。“我们不想一下子眉毛胡子一把抓，而是专注于衬衣，此举能让我们不断精益求精。”

Palmer has a degree in pattern-cutting from Dallas University — and the duo’s technical skills have led to the nickname “the shirt boys”. Palmer Harding has a list of rules for its shirting: cotton only; collars must have two types of interfacing; and each seam has 18 stitches per inch, with most constructed with French seams, for softness. (Many of their pieces are created via draping fabric on the model, with the shirting elements added in afterwards.)

帕尔默曾获得达拉斯大学(Dallas University)的裁剪专业学位—这对黄金组合的出色设计技能使其获得了“衬衣男神”的绰号。Palmer Harding的衬衣有一整套规则：只采用纯棉面料，衣领必使用两种衬布，每个接缝采用每英寸18针，而且多数接缝采用法式线缝法，以期增加柔软度。（很多单件衬衣设计时，先在模特身上试面料，而后再添加各个衬衣组件。）

Their four annual collections include a variety of shirting interpretations, each referred to by a model number. Such has been the popularity of number 96 (introduced in 2013, pictured below), they have struggled to keep up with orders, and there is often a long waiting list for the shirt. Its appeal is obvious: crafted from five metres of fine German cotton, the top is a classic button-down with long sleeves and big cuffs, which gives way to a vast, asymmetric maxi length. “It’s a very dramatic piece and it creates a massive silhouette,” says Harding. “But at the same time, it’s just a cotton shirt.”

他们每年推出四个时装系列，其中就有众多衬衣款式，每一款都由模特号代表。风靡一时的96号衬衣就是如此。该款衬衣的订单多得让他们力不从心，总是供不应求。其魅力显而易见：它由5米德国上乘棉布料手工打造而成，这款长袖子与大袖口的经典款领扣式衬衣最终呈现的是非对称的超长款式。“这款夸张做作的衬衣穿在身上，气势逼人。”哈丁说。“但与此同时，这只是一款棉衬衣。”

The button-down has come a long way from its humble origins. “In the past, the gentleman’s shirt was relegated to being worn as an undergarment. Unless you were fighting a duel, it really wasn’t on display,” says Kristina Rate, who founded her London-based Belle Epoque label in 2013. Her first collection was comprised entirely of white shirts inspired by the actress Lauren Bacall. “Today, it’s a powerful fashion staple — it’s the most-worn piece of clothing by both sexes.”

领扣式衬衣最初是名不见经传的角色，历经漫长岁月，方有今日之地位。“过去，男士衬衣只是穿作贴身内衣。除非参加决斗，否则它难露真身。” 克里斯蒂娜•凯特(Kristina Rate)说，她于2013年在伦敦创办自己的品牌Belle Epoque。她推出的第一个时装系列全是白衬衣，其设计灵感来自于影星劳伦•巴考尔(Lauren Bacall)。“如今，这是一款畅销装——它是男女拥趸最喜欢的单品。”

Whereas the classic white shirt will always sell, this season is all about the statement. “We’ve always loved a woman in a white shirt,” says Tome’s Ramon Martin from the brand’s 25th Street studio in NoMad, a tiny New York neighbourhood nestled between Chelsea and Flatiron. The studio is a big, white, open space with all-day sunlight and sky views, where everything from the designing to pattern-cutting and fittings takes place. “It’s an inspiring space to be in,” says co-founder Ryan Lobo.

尽管经典款白衬衣一直畅销，但这个时装季，却是华丽高调的女款衬衣独领风骚。“我们一直对身穿白衬衣的女性情有独钟。”Tome设计师拉蒙•马丁(Ramon Martin)在位于NoMad第25街的工作室如是说道，NoMad是位于纽约切尔西(Chelsea)与熨斗区(Flatiron)之间的一处微型社区。工作室是一处面积巨大的白色开放式空间，全天阳光通透，蓝天白云一览无遗，从设计、裁剪到拼接的所有工作都在里面完成。“身处其中，灵感源源不绝。”该工作室共同创始人瑞恩•洛博(Ryan Lobo)说。

Alongside its ready-to-wear collections which always includes shirts, in 2017 Tome launched a collaboration with the charity Freedom for All. The White Shirt Project is a twice-yearly capsule of around three shirts, with profits going to the charity’s efforts to eradicate slavery and human trafficking. “We see the white shirt as a metaphor for a clean slate,” says Lobo of the collaboration.

在推出成衣系列（总有衬衣）的同时，Tome2017年还与慈善组织Freedom for All合推了一个时装系列，The White Shirt Project每年两次推出混搭款衬衣，每次大约推出三件衬衣，所得利润捐于Freedom for All，根除奴隶制与贩卖人口的慈善事业。“我们认为白衬衣寓意个人历史一清二白。”洛博说。

Women are at the forefront of the Tome brand: whether it’s the female artist they take inspiration from each season (past choices have included Georgia O’Keeffe and Louise Bourgeois), the women in their six-strong atelier, or their clients. They are mindful of ensuring their collection has a democratic offering, and take on board feedback about everything from design to price points. “We ask them, ‘Would you wear this? Do you like this colour? Would you put this on?’ ” says Martin. “‘Would you buy it? And pay $500 for it?’ We enjoy learning about what inspires women and, practically, what satisfies them.”

不管是女性艺术家（每个时装季，旗下设计师都会从其身上汲取设计灵感，过去的例子就包括了乔治亚•奥基夫(Georgia O'Keeffe)与路易丝•布尔乔亚(Louise Bourgeois)等女性艺术家）、工作室六位知名设计师中的女性成员、还是客户群，女性一直位居Tome品牌最重要的地位。Tome是有心者：确保自己推出的系列做到博采众长，而且愿意倾听从设计至价位的各种反馈意见。“我们会问女性，‘您愿意穿这吗？喜欢这款颜色吗？会穿它吗？’”马丁说。“‘您会买吗？愿意出500美元吗？’我们乐于了解女性喜欢的东西，即她们实际青睐啥。”

For brands like Tome, it’s shirting season every season. “A blank page for a writer is an opportunity for just about any inspiration, and maybe the white shirt allows the same thing,” says Martin. “That white page allows our customer, our woman, to create whatever she wants of herself.” The shirt then allows for renewal. “They’re everyday heroes,” he concludes.

对于Tome这类品牌来说，衬衣成了包打各个时装季的唯一产品。“对于作家来说，各种写作灵感都能跃然于一张白纸上，或许白衬衣也是如此。”马丁说。“一件白衬衣能让我们的女性客户肆意打扮。”衬衫的花样就会不断推陈出新。“它们就是平日生活的主角。”他总结道。