外套流行超大号

London’s Frieze art fair in October was not only a showcase for contemporary art but also a barometer of the hottest fashion trends of the season. On the VIP evening you could hardly move for chic artists, buyers and dealers in oversized outerwear. “The oversized coat is the only coat to own this season, says Kate Phelan, former Vogue fashion director-turned-Topshop’s creative director. While there were other styles on the catwalks this season – from puffas and crazy fun furs to military and equestrian – there was a rare consensus among designers about the key coat statement: supersize me.

伦敦弗雷兹艺博会(Frieze Art Fair)不仅是当代艺术的展示会，同时还是今年秋冬季最潮时尚的晴雨表。在VIP晚场发布会，身穿超大款外套的时尚艺术家、买家以及经销商让人看得目不转睛。“超大款外套是今年秋冬季的主打服装，凯特·费兰(Kate Phelan)说，她是《Vogue》前时尚总监、目前担任Topshop创意总监。虽说今年秋冬季T型台上展出了其它流行款式——从羽绒款、怪异款的毛外衣到军服款及马术装——但就今年秋冬季主打外套而言，设计师们罕有地、异口同声推出的均是超大款衣服。

Not that fashion is offering a total respite from decision-making. Within the trend there are multiple looks. There’s sporty (Chloé, Stella McCartney), the oversized boyfriend (3.1 Phillip Lim, Céline, Chalayan), the 1950s, couture-inspired cocoon (Raf Simons’s last season for Jil Sander, Erdem), the luxe dressing gown (Daks, Chloé) and the biggest and, if you like your clothing conceptual, the best: the 2D felt sandwich board-effect courtesy of Comme des Gar?ons.

并不是说时尚界整体出现了暂时性决策失语。即便当今流行超大款服装的时尚潮中，还是存在众多风格及款式，有克洛伊(Chloé)与斯特拉·麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)推出的运动款、菲利普·林3.1 (Phillip Lim 3.1)、Céline与夏拉扬(Chalayan)推出的特大号男性风格装、拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons)受高级女装启发而推出的上世纪50年代风格的“茧形服装（cocoon，他去年秋冬季专为吉尔·桑达(Jil Sander)与埃德姆(Erdem)设计）以及Daks与克洛伊推出的奢侈款晨衣；诸位若在意自己的服装设计概念，那么最棒最潮的莫过于Comme des Gar?ons所推出的具有2D效果、就像挂在身上的广告牌效果的服装。

Céline’s pumped-up crombie-cocoons might come in bright turquoise and a soft dusky pink (￡2,160) but the borrowed-from-your-boyfriend shape – assuming your boyfriend has the build of an American footballer – is decidedly masculine. So too is Phillip Lim’s dark, herringbone style with asymmetric zip (￡934). Lim says: “A woman in a man’s silhouette provides both protection and power – a perfect solution for the neo-noir heroine that lives within all of us. Hussein Chalayan, who has always included an oversized coat in his collections, is also taken with androgyny, saying: “I think a roomy coat is beautifully boyish and timeless on a woman ... I like a woman who can be slightly boyish during the day and more feminine at night. This mannish silhouette feels effortlessly cool. Call it a backlash against the Duchess of Cambridge’s parade of fit and flare, matched to her hat, Trooping the Colour-appropriate coats.

Céline很可能推出亮青绿色与柔柔的暗粉红色两种款式的奔放型克龙比茧形服装（售价2160英镑），但酷似男友板型的服装显得阳刚气十足（假设你男友有美式橄榄球运动员那样的块头）。菲利普·林推出的人字形暗色调服装（拉链为非对称式）也是如此（售价934英镑）。林说：“女士穿男版服装，既能护体、又有气势——对于希望成为新黑色电影中女主人公形象的女士来说，是再合适不过了。侯赛因·卡拉扬(Hussein Chalayan)设计的每个系列中总有一款超大号外套，他喜欢阴阳气质均备的服装，他说：“我觉得女士穿肥款外套，既显得英姿飒爽，又能长期穿……我喜欢女士白天略显阳刚气，晚上则是娇媚十足。这种男性化的服装给人以超酷的感觉，若是穿上颜色得体的外套，与剑桥公爵夫人（Duchess of Cambridge，即英国凯特王妃）公开场合所穿的既合身又炫目的服装相比，一点都不逊色，也与她的帽子绝配。

But scaled-up cover-ups can also look ladylike. At Jil Sander, Simons struck the right note of femininity without fussiness on full swing and A-line coats with wide sleeves and dropped shoulders. In shades of sugared-almond pink, tan, scarlet and navy, they demonstrated the elegant simplicity of volume and harked back to the 1950s and 1960s. Loose, kimono-like opera coats, such as those by Paul Poiret, were popular in the 1910s but the oversized coat is most associated with the 1980s. Then, volume suggested testosterone-charged power as Claude Montana and Thierry Mugler offered coats with exaggerated proportions.

但是，特大号的裹体外套也显出女性的柔美。设计师西蒙斯没有对最畅销的吉尔·桑达A字形外套的宽袖与溜肩式样进行大题小作，同样也恰如其分地打造出了女性的柔美。在糖衣杏仁粉红色、棕褐色、鲜红色以及藏青色暗纹图案的衬托下，它们表现出大号服装的简约式优雅，不由让人回想起上世纪50年代与60年代的流行时尚。如保罗·波烈(Paul Poiret)设计的和服式宽松歌剧装在20世纪初曾经风靡一时，但大型号外套主要与上世纪80年代相关联。当时，随着克劳德·蒙塔娜(Claude Montana)与蒂埃里·穆勒(Thierry Mugler)推出超大款的外套，大型号服装显示的是男性十足的孔武有力。

This time round, however, the pseudo-masculine bravado of 1980s outerwear has become a desire to appear outwardly confident while, inwardly, being cocooned from the world during financial, political and even climatic turmoil. After all, if society is about to collapse, a huge swathe of tweed in which to envelop yourself and your survivalist supply of canned food or superannuated euros will be more useful than something tight and tailored.

但这一回，穿上上世纪80年代风格的仿男版大外套虚张声势一番，目的是在外可以显得信心十足，内心又能对全球金融、政治甚至气候问题的乱局“装聋作哑。毕竟，如果社会真的乱套，相比紧身定制衣服，穿上厚厚的超大号粗花呢外套显然更为实用，因为它不但可以包裹住自己的躯体，而且可以装下你勉强维持生计的罐装食品以及过时的欧元。

Chalayan says: “I like the idea of protecting and encapsulating the body in something warm. Sheila McKain-Waid, designer at Daks, whose long fleecy coat was the closest thing the catwalk has to an XXL Slanket (in the best possible way), agrees: “There is a comforting quality to them, a wonderful cocoon against the elements. For Carmen Borgonovo, senior style editor of UK Harper’s Bazaar, the appeal is twofold – psychological and practical: “One finds safety and comfort in a large, warm cover-up whilst, from a fashion point of view, these shapes create a dramatic and stylish contrast against fitted tailored pieces.

卡拉扬说：“我喜欢设计保护与包裹住身体的保暖外套。Daks设计师希拉·麦凯恩-韦德(Sheila McKain-Waid)也持同样看法，她在今年秋冬季时装周上推出的羊毛长外套酷似超特大号的Slanket装（用最可行的方法）。她说：“超大号衣服给人以精神慰藉，也能很好地遮风避雨。在英国《时尚芭莎》(Harper's Bazaar)高级时尚编辑卡门·伯格诺沃(Carmen Borgonovo)看来，好处在心理与实用两个层面：“穿大号保暖外套给人以舒适与安全感，而从时尚角度看，这种款式可以与定制合身衣服形成外观与风格的强烈反差。

Clearly, pairing a big coat with big trousers will make you look – guess what – very big. Borgonovo says: “It’s all about playing with proportion and creating a bold statement. I’d wear them with cropped trousers and architectural shoes or with slim dresses and pencil skirts. Artist Anj Smith was at Frieze in a puffy grey coat by Marc Jacobs. She said: “I’m not intimidated by volume. This coat is bigger than I would normally wear but I think the shape has the appeal of a cocoon, only more relaxed.

很显然，把大号外套与大号裤子搭配穿——猜猜会怎么着——可以让你显得很伟岸。伯格诺沃说：“都是在尺寸及打造威武模样上做文章。我会把它们与七分裤与建筑鞋混穿，要不就与修身连衣裙与紧身窄裙混穿。艺术家史密斯(Anj Smith)穿着马克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)的灰色蓬松款外套莅临弗雷兹艺博会。她说：“本人可不在乎穿大号衣服，这件外套比我平时穿的衣服号大，但我觉得这种款式给人以蚕茧般的安全感，而且更为自在。

The high street has embraced the style, with a tweedy car coat at Hobbs NW3 (on sale at ￡194) and numerous styles including a black wool cocoon at Cos (￡135). At Topshop, where roomy coats such as one in black with a red cross print (￡250), have been popular, Phelan says: “The slouchy boyfriend coat is so easy to wear, you just throw it on over everything. It can be smart with a polo neck and a cigarette pant, or casual and easy with jeans and a shirt. It is also incredibly glamorous over the shoulders on a little dress for a night out.

市场紧随其后，Hobbs的NW3门店推出的花呢料短大衣（售价194英镑）与Cos推出的众多时尚款（包括黑色羊毛“蚕形服装，售价250英镑）一直非常畅销。费兰说：“男式慵懒款外套很方便穿，可以随意套在任何衣服上；若与高圆领与烟卷形短裤(像烟卷一样幅度窄、无折缝的短裤)配着穿，显得非常时髦；若与牛仔服与衬衣搭配穿，则显得既休闲又率性；晚上若是套在小礼服上出去应酬，肯定光彩照人。

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