中餐亦‘咸’亦‘健康’

When I have Chinese food in the United States, I sometimes go for something lighter, like chicken with garlic sauce. But other times, I may want Sichuan-style dumplings in hot oil, or a crunchy, deep-fried, spicy dish, such as sesame chicken.

在美国吃中餐的时候，我有时候会选择清淡点的菜品，比如鱼香鸡丁。但有时候，我会选择川味热油拌饺子、油炸饺子、芝麻鸡等麻辣菜。

I think you can find something on any Chinese restaurant menu in the US that will suit your dietary needs. But a New York health blogger who recently began serving what she calls "feel-great" Chinese food got a heaping serving of social media outrage this month.

我想，在美国任意一家中餐馆的菜单上，你总能找到适合自身口味的菜品。纽约一名健康博主最近开始推广其称之为"感觉良好的"中餐，但却在社交媒体上引发了愤慨。

Nutritionist Arielle Haspel opened the Lucky Lee's restaurant in Manhattan on April 8. (Lee is her husband's first name.) "We heard you're obsessed with lo mein but rarely eat it," Lucky Lee's wrote in a since-deleted Instagram post. "You said it makes you feel bloated and icky the next day? Well, wait until you slurp up our HIGH lo mein. Not too oily. Or salty."

营养学家阿里埃尔·哈斯佩尔（Arielle Haspel）于4月8日在曼哈顿开了一家名为幸运李（Lucky Lee）的餐馆（她的丈夫姓李。）"听说你很喜欢捞面但却不经常吃，"幸运李餐馆的Ins上写道（该文已删除）。"因为你说吃完捞面的第二天会变得臃肿、粘腻。额，还是等吃完我们的奢侈捞面再评价吧，不油也不咸。"

And: "This entire menu is gluten-free, dairy-free, wheat-free, corn-free, peanut cashew & pistachio-free. … We use non-GMO (genetically modified organism) oil& never refined sugar, MSG (monosodium glutamate) or food coloring."

而且："整个菜单都不含麸质、乳制品、小麦、玉米、花生、腰果和开心果。我们选择非转基因油炒菜，决不使用精制糖、味精（谷氨酸钠）和食用色素。"

Netizens lashed out, accusing Haspel of disrespecting Chinese food and culture.

但却遭到了网民的攻击，他们指责哈斯佩尔不尊重中国的饮食和文化。

Here's a sampling:

指责内容如下：

"Not only is she using Chinese food stereotypes/naming, she is shaming traditional Chinese food cooking."

"她不仅利用了中餐的刻板印象/菜名，而且还不尊重传统的中餐烹饪方式。"

"Do it without dragging down an entire, diverse cuisine representing billions of people."

"不要拉低代表数十亿人的多样化美食的档次好嘛！"

"If you are going to take up a cultural group's food, do it some justice by not marketing your 'differentiation' with language that further reinforces stereotypes/racist perceptions."

"如果你打算接受一个文化团体的食物，那就不要通过言语营销你的'不同之处'，不要进一步的加深刻板印象或种族主义观念。"

The restaurant responded on Instagram on April 9, acknowledging "there are cultural sensitivities related to our Lucky Lee's concept". Chinese-American food was a "big and very happy part" of the couple's childhoods, they said, coming together in "the ultimate melting pot" of New York.

该餐馆于4月9日在Ins上回复，承认"幸福李餐馆所崇尚的概念具有文化敏感性。"美式中餐是这对夫妻童年时代的"重要部分，也是极为幸福的一部分"，他们说道，最后成为纽约"终极大熔炉"的一部分。

"We thought we were complementing an incredibly important cuisine, in a way that would cater to people that had certain dietary requirements," Haspel told The New York Times.

"我们以为我们正在补充一种非常重要的美食，可以满足有着特定饮食需求的消费群，" 哈斯佩尔对《纽约时报》说道。