Swiss watches and the Apple Watch
瑞士手表与苹果手表
It s not about time
这和看时间没有关系
Traditional watchmakers are confident they can seeoff Apple s new bauble
传统手表制造商有信心看到苹果华而不实的新玩意儿退出舞台
WHEN cheap, accurate quartz watches startedpouring out ofAsiain the 1970s, many Swiss watchmakers went bust. But the survivorsrecovered their sangfroid and went on to prosper as crafters of stylish timepieces thatproclaim the wearer s taste and status better than any electronic gizmo could.
当19世纪70年代,价廉精准的石英表开始在亚洲普及,许多瑞士手表制造商破产了。但是那些幸存者恢复镇静,作为时尚手工钟表生产商继续着繁荣事业,这些钟表比任何电子玩意儿都能更好的彰显佩戴者的品味与地位。
Do Apple s new smartwatch and devices like it portend another quartz catastrophe? Somethink they might. Wrists are prime real estate, points out Richard Seymour, a designconsultant. Many people park expensive watches thereespecially men, since that is the mainsort of jewellery that convention allows them. So if smartwatches catch on, they could evictthe Swiss baubles.
苹果新款智能手表以及其他类似产品预示着另一个石英手表的大灾难吗? 有些人也许这样认为。设计顾问Richard Seymour指出:手腕是绝佳的部位。许多人佩戴名贵腕表特别是男士,因为这是世俗允许他们佩戴的主流饰品。因此如果智能手表流行开来,它们可能将瑞士手表逐出市场。
That seems to be Apple s ambition. It has been poaching talent from fashion houses. Its newwatches aim to be more than gadgets: some have 18-carat gold cases. Sir Jonathan Ive,Apple s design chief, has reportedly boasted to colleagues that the Swiss are in trouble.
这似乎就是苹果公司的野心。其从时装公司挖走人才。苹果公司的新款手表旨在不止是腕表:有些腕表拥有18K金表壳。据报道,苹果的首席设计师Jonathan Ive先生向同事吹嘘说瑞士手表正陷入困境。
They are not trembling yet. Smartwatches are a mere information tool that say nothingspecial about the wearer, says Jean-Claude Biver, chairman of Hublot, a Swiss brand owned byLVMH, a big luxury group. They become obsolete as soon as the technology advances. Swisswatchmakers, on the other hand, are selling eternity in a box.
他们还未惊慌失措。大型奢侈品集团Hublot是瑞士手表旗下品牌,其主席Jean-Claude Biver表示,智能手表仅仅是一种信息工具,并不能彰显佩戴者的特别。一旦科技进步,它们就将被淘汰。相反,瑞士手表制造商售卖的却是盒子里的永恒。
Cheaper and less eternal Swiss-watch brands, from low-end ones like Swatch to mid-marketones like Tissot and Hamilton, seem most at risk. Swatch has already tried to get intosmartwatches, in an ill-fated venture with Microsoft a decade ago, and plans to try again.However, Jon Cox of Kepler Cheuvreux, a stockbroker, points out that watches costing $500 orless provide just 6% of the industry s revenues, so it could survive their loss. Since Swatchalso owns several upmarket brands and makes parts for many others, just 5% of its profits areat risk from Apple s watch, Mr Cox reckons.
较为便宜以及不太保值的瑞士手表品牌,从低端品牌如Swatch到中端品牌如Tissot和Hamilton,似乎风险最大。十年前Swatch已携手微软试图进入智能手表领域,但这场冒险因时运不佳以失败告终,其计划再试一次。然而,Kepler Cheuvreux的一个股票经纪人Jon Cox指出,价格在500美元或500美元以下的手表,仅提供该产业的总收入的6%,因此Swatch能承受它们的损失。Cox先生认为,由于 Swatch还拥有几个高端品牌,且其为其他品牌手表制造零部件,其利润中仅5%会因苹果手表的发布而存在风险。
Mr Biver thinks it may even boost Swiss watchmakers by getting youngsters used to wearingsomething pricey on their wrists. Existing customers may wear Apples for everyday use, butslip into something more enviable for social occasions. Mr Seymour is not so sure: he thinksApple will do its utmost to make people wear its watch all the time.
Biver先生认为这甚至会让年轻人对在手腕上佩戴一些昂贵的产品习以为常,从而促进瑞士手表制造商的发展。现有客户可能会在日常生活中使用苹果手表,但是在社交场合他们就会戴一些更让人艳羡的东西。Seymour先生并不如此肯定:他认为苹果公司将会尽其最大努力使人们无时无刻都戴着苹果手表。
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