36小时玩转克罗地亚的萨格勒布

For years, Zagreb, Croatia’s chief city, was a layoveron the way to the country’s island-studded coast. No more. Tourism had shot up more than 20percent from 2011 to 2013, when Croatia joined the European Union. Accompanying that rise isa raft of modernized and recently built lodgings, including some three dozen hostels —important additions to the town’s once-inadequate accommodation scene. For those whofell in love with Zagreb, population 790,000, before its surge in popularity, fear not. Thoughthe town has rejiggered its offerings with jazzy lounges, bistros and chic clothes-designerateliers, this Slavic metropolis along the Sava River still retains plenty of cobbled-street charm.

克罗地亚拥有岛屿星罗棋布的海岸线，多年来，这个国家的首都萨格勒布只是通往海滩的中转站，如今这里已经今非昔比。2013年，克罗地亚加入欧盟，旅游业比2011年增长了20%还多。伴随这一增长而来的是大量新建的现代化住宿场所，其中包括三十多个旅馆，对于这个住宿一度供不应求的城市来说堪称重要的变化。萨格勒布拥有79万人口，那些早在这里尚未被世人所知时就已爱上它的游客也无需担心：尽管重修了爵士风情的酒吧、餐馆，以及时髦的时装设计师工作室，这座萨瓦河畔的斯拉夫都市依然拥有铺着鹅卵石的街道，不失其古老优雅的魅力。

1. Begin at the Beginning | 3 p.m

1. 一切从头开始 | 下午3点

Pay homage to Zagreb’s origins, Kaptol, which was settled as a bishopric in 1094. Today,Kaptol comprises the eastern half of Upper Town, anchored by the city’s most famous building:the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, restored after an 1880earthquake, and the site of the tomb of the beatified Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac. Beforeentering, soak in its neo-Gothic grandeur from a table at Amélie, which sits in the shadow ofthe church’s twin 344-foot spires. The French-cafe mood — Django Reinhardt-esque melodiesare piped in over checkerboard floors and weathered wood tables — is complemented by a glasscase filled with house-made delicacies. The Torta Amélie is layered with custard, almonds andwild berries; 18 kunas or $2.65, at 6.8 kunas to the dollar.

你可以到萨格勒布的起源地卡普托尔(Kaptol)去做个致意，1094年，这里正式成为一处主教辖区。如今的卡普托尔包括上城东侧，这座城市最著名的建筑、1880年地震后重修的圣母升天大教堂(Cathedral of theAssumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary)就在这里，有福的枢机主教阿罗杰兹·斯坦皮纳茨(CardinalAlojzije Stepinac)的陵墓也在这里。教堂的双塔有344英尺高， “爱美丽咖啡馆就坐落在这道长长的阴影之下，进入教堂之前，不妨先来这里品位一下新歌特式的美景。法式咖啡馆的情调、 强戈·莱恩哈特(DjangoReinhardt)式的旋律回荡在棋盘格地板和古色古香的木质桌子之间，玻璃橱中装满家庭风味的美味佳肴。爱美丽蛋糕(The Torta Amélie)里层叠着蛋奶糊、巴旦木和野浆果;一份售价18库纳(按6.8库纳兑换一美元，合2.65美元)。

2. Wine and Dine | 5 p.m.

2. 美食与美酒 | 下午5点

About nine out of 10 Croats classify themselves as Catholics. Arguably a larger portionconsider themselves wine connoisseurs, given the number of top-flight vintages produced inthis fertile country. Vinoteka Bornstein, the first private wine shop that opened in the formerYugoslavia, has a 19th-century labyrinthine cellar and a new wine bar offering internationallabels and vintages from every Croatian region. The Coronica malvasia, a white from the IstrianPeninsula, is a stellar choice (95 kunas). Then walk west to the other side of Upper Townknown as Gradec, once the merchant yin to Kaptol’s religious yang. Duck into Trilogija, a tinyspot tucked into a passageway. This local favorite offers an eclectic menu, with ingredientsbought daily at Zagreb’s green market. Try the grilled pork tenderloin with oven-bakedpotatoes, cauliflower and a truffle cream (90 kunas).

10个克罗地亚人中有九个说自己是天主教徒。很可能有更多人会说自己是品评美酒的行家，因为这片肥沃的土地上生长着众多最优质的葡萄。维诺特卡·伯恩斯坦(Vinoteka Bornstein)是前南斯拉夫第一家私人红酒店，拥有迷宫般的19世纪地下酒窖，以及一个新的吧台，提供各国名酒，以及产自克罗地亚各地的美酒。克罗尼卡玛尔维萨(Coronica malvasia)是一种白葡萄酒，产自伊斯的利亚半岛，在店里颇为抢手(95库纳)。然后向西步行，来到上城的另一侧，这里是名叫格拉代茨(Gradec)的商业区，是充满宗教氛围的卡普托尔的另一面。你可以躲进步行道一侧小小的特里洛基亚(Trilogija)饭馆，这里颇受本地人喜爱，食谱较为折中，食材每日新鲜采购，来自萨格勒布本地菜市。不妨尝尝这里的烤猪肉里脊配烤土豆、花椰菜和松露酱(90库纳)。

3. Love Lost | 8 p.m.

3. 失落的爱 | 晚上8点

Walk across Gradec, past St. Mark’s Church, with its patterned tile roof depicting the Croatianand Zagreb coats of arms, to one of the town’s quirkiest attractions: the Museum of BrokenRelationships. The brainchild of Olinka Vistica and Drazen Grubisic, a former couple, is theproduct of a simple question: “What to do with all those tokens of love, material andimmaterial, that you collected during your relationship? The result was a temporary exhibitin Zagreb, in 2006, with items like 100 discarded roses, airsickness bags, and a head-massaging “tingler collected from friends. The concept has been on the road since, visiting 33cities in 21 countries, collecting keepsakes along the way. In 2010, the two established themuseum’s bricks-and-mortar home in the Croatian capital with an international trove that’soften cringe-inducing — fur-lined handcuffs, a toaster stolen out of spite, and an ax used todestroy a former lover’s furniture. The overall effect is interesting, to say the least (25 kunas).

走过格拉代茨，途经圣马可教堂，它的彩瓦屋顶上描绘着克罗地亚与萨格勒布的盾形纹章，然后你就来到这个城市最诡异的景点：失恋博物馆。这是分手情侣奥琳卡·维斯迪卡(Olinka Vistica)与德拉岑·格鲁比西茨(Drazen Grubisic)的点子，来自一个非常简单的问题：“分手之后，你要怎么处理热恋期间有形或无形的信物?于是，2006年，他们在萨格勒布举办了这样一个临时展览，展品都是他们从朋友那里收集的物品，包括100朵被丢弃的玫瑰、晕机袋、按摩头部的“刺激物等等。后来他们还举办了巡展，来到21个国家的33个城市，沿途收集纪念品。2010年，两人在克罗地亚首都建成了实体博物馆，里面收藏了不少来自世界各地的展品，有的还颇令人畏惧——皮毛手铐、为了泄恨而偷来的烤面包机、用来砍坏分手恋人家具的斧子。不过整体效果还是挺有趣的(门票25库纳)。

4. Where Artists Gather | 10 p.m.

4. 艺术家聚集地 | 晚上10点

Around the corner and a couple of blocks away, Zagreb’s oldest tavern, Pod Starim Krovovima,is situated in a 14th-century building. Opened as a public drinking hole in 1830, this unofficialclubhouse for poets, actors, writers, singers, directors and photographers from the Kingdom ofYugoslavia to the present day is, according to the owner, Domagoj Pocrnic: “a regular pubfrequented by famous people. Under rough-hewed beams, patrons gather for libations atyesteryear prices and meditative evenings that become impromptu dance parties. Half a literof local Velebitsko beer is 12.50 kunas; a shot of rakija, or Slavic schnapps, costs 8 kunas.

再走几个街区就可以看到萨格勒布最古老的酒馆波德·斯塔利姆·科洛沃维玛(Pod Starim Krovovima)，它坐落在一栋14世纪的建筑里，自从1830年成为酒馆对公众开放之后，这里就成了诗人、演员、作家、歌手、导演与摄影师们非正式的俱乐部，从南斯拉夫王国时代至今一直如此。酒馆老板多玛格耶·波茨尔尼克(DomagojPocrnic)说，“这里经常有名人光顾。粗糙质朴的房梁之下，顾客们以去年的便宜价格畅饮美酒，沉静的夜晚也会瞬间变为即兴的舞蹈派对。半公升本地产维勒比特斯科啤酒卖12.5库纳;一杯“拉齐亚(rakija)或者斯拉夫杜松子酒卖8库纳。

5. Rituals | 9 a.m.

5. 仪式 | 上午9点

Zagreb is a town of traditions. Every day at noon, the Lotrscak Tower cannon is fired, sendingshock waves across town. And each Saturday, Purgers (as people from Zagreb call themselves)don their best threads and head to cafes in the main square, Jelacic, to see and be seen. Youwon’t want to miss this tradition: Each morning at 7, farmers and produce vendors set up inthe town’s open-air market, Dolac, on a bustling quad between Upper and Lower Towns.Surrounded by souvenir kiosks and quick-bite joints, a sea of red umbrellas shelters cheeses,meats, fish, nuts, oils and vegetables spill over tables in the place locals call “the belly ofZagreb. Have your breakfast here on the fly. Spread local butter atop warm bread and chase itwith fresh figs (total cost, about 30 kunas).

萨格勒布是一座传统之城。每天中午，洛斯卡克塔(Lotrscak Tower)的礼炮都会鸣响，整个城市为之颤动。每个星期六，萨格勒布的居民们(他们自称“Purgers)都会穿上最好的衣服到捷拉斯加(Jelacic)主广场去，观看他人，也被他人所观看。还有一个传统仪式你肯定不愿错过：每天早上七点，农民和小摊贩们会到城市的露天广场朵拉茨(Dolac)摆摊，它就位于上城和下城一处闹哄哄的场院里。四周是一片红雨伞的海洋，遮盖着纪念品售货亭和快餐小吃摊。奶酪、肉食、鱼类、坚果、食油和蔬菜摆满了桌子，所以本地人把这里叫做“萨格勒布的肚子。百忙中来这里享受一顿早餐吧。在热乎乎的面包上涂满本地产的黄油，再搭配新鲜的无花果(合计30库纳)。

6. Local Fashion | 11 a.m.

6. 本地时尚 | 上午11点

Taking mental note of the up-to-the-minute fashions the famously put-together Zagrebianswear, head to steep Radiceva Street, which begins in the northwest corner of Jelacic Square, toassemble your new look. Stop in at Boudoir, a boutique opened by the designers and sistersMorana Saracevic and Martina Cicko-Karapetric. Once a millinery run by their grandmother, theshop offers striking collections, which incorporate materials like lace, silk and satin.Everything is handmade on site. Dresses start around 3,000 kunas. To complete yourensemble, make a left at the top of the street’s incline and pass through Kamenita Vrata, thelast medieval “stone gate remaining from the fortifications that once surrounded Gradec. Justbeyond the gate, you’ll find Dora, specializing in dresses and women’s coats. The three-decade-old family business, run by Dora Rubic, displays elegant in-house designs made of silk,cashmere, angora and alpaca. Wraps cost about 2,000 kunas.

要想知道最新的时尚，萨格勒布人最著名的搭配，就到陡峭的拉迪赛瓦街(Radiceva Street)来添置新行头吧，这条街始于捷拉斯加广场的西北角。你可以到“闺房(Boudoir)驻足，这是设计师莫拉娜·萨拉塞维奇(Morana Saracevic)和玛蒂娜·希茨科-卡拉佩特里奇(Martina Cicko-Karapetric)合开的，过去曾是一家女帽店，由她俩的祖母经营，现在出售精美的时装，结合了蕾丝和绸缎等质材。一切都是现场手工制作。连衣裙3000库纳起。为了凑齐一套行头，你可以往左走，来到这条街陡坡的最高处，穿过最后一扇中世纪的“石门卡米尼塔·弗拉塔(Kamenita Vrata)，它来自曾经环绕格拉代茨(Gradec)的工事。门那边是朵拉(Dora)，它专营连衣裙和女式外套，是拥有30年历史的家庭店铺，由朵拉·卢比奇(Dora Rubic)经营，展示自省设计的丝绸、羊绒、羊毛和羊驼毛服饰，式样优雅高贵。披巾约2000库纳。

7. Lunch and Art | 1 p.m.

7. 午饭与艺术 | 下午1点

A U-shaped series of parks, known as the Green Horseshoe, extends from the train station tothe main square and forms the skeleton of Lower Town. On avenues surrounding this tree-lined, flowery corridor are cafes, lounges, restaurants and shops. Just off the Horseshoe, takea seat at a table inside Lari & Penati. Opened in 2011, this sidewalk bistro provides amodern — and occasionally American — twist on Croatian fare. The baked spare ribs areserved with a tangy barbecue sauce, potato salad and coleslaw (45 kunas) and pair well with aglass of Solum cabernet sauvignon from the country’s Slavonia region (25 kunas). After lunch,hail a taxi to the Museum of Contemporary Art. The $65 million complex instantly made theCroatian capital a center for progressive art when it opened in 2010. The collection ofinternational paintings, film, photography, sculpture and installations fills the 156,000-square-foot facility and shares space with rotating exhibitions. Among the most popular pieces areCarsten Holler’s spiraling, interactive, stainless steel slides at the entrance (30 kunas).

从火车站到主广场有一串U形的公园，叫做“绿色蹄铁(Green Horseshoe)，它们构成了下城的骨架。这里绿荫密布，鲜花盛开，道路两旁布满咖啡屋、酒吧、饭馆和商店。距离“绿色蹄铁不远，有一家叫做“拉里与皮纳迪(Lari & Penati)的街边小酒馆，可以进去坐坐。这间酒馆于2011年开业，里面的克罗地亚菜中有一丝现代风味，有时还有点美国化。推荐烤瘦肋排配浓郁的烤肉酱、土豆沙拉和卷心菜沙拉(45库纳)，还可以搭配一杯来自这个国家斯拉沃尼亚地区的索伦姆(Solum)赤霞珠红葡萄酒(25库纳)。午饭后，打辆车去当代艺术馆。这栋斥资6500万美元的艺术馆于2010年开放，令克罗地亚的首都成为前卫艺术的中心。艺术馆占地15.6万平方英尺，馆藏包括世界各地的绘画、电影、摄影、雕塑和装置艺术，此外还有临时展览。馆内最受欢迎的藏品中包括入口处卡斯特·奥莱(Carsten Holler)的不锈钢互动螺旋滑梯(门票30库纳)。

8. Dinner and Drama | 6 p.m.

8. 晚餐与戏剧 | 下午6点

Dinner at Bistro Fotic, in a former Croatian photo club, combines nostalgia — walls and shelvesare filled with black-and-white images and vintage cameras — and delectable down-home fare.The butter-seared trout comes with cream of spinach and potatoes (50 kunas). For dessert, trythe apple or blueberry strudel (20 kunas), and a free plum or apricot digestif. Then walk threeblocks west to the Croatian National Theater. The interior of the country’s most prestigiousperformance space is a swirl of Old World gilded opulence. The neo-Baroque building, openedin 1895 by the Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Josef, stages a repertory of internationalclassics as well as modern dramatic works, ballet and opera. This season’s productionsinclude Ibsen’s “A Doll’s House and Puccini’s “Tosca.

晚上可以在弗迪茨饭馆(Bistro Fotic)饭馆用餐，这里曾是一家克罗地亚摄影俱乐部，墙壁和架子上摆满黑白照片和老式相机，极具怀旧气息，还提供可口的家常菜。推荐黄油烧鳟鱼搭配菠菜土豆泥(50库纳)。甜点可尝试苹果或蓝莓馅点心(20库纳)，还有一杯免费的李子汁或杏汁饮料。然后向西步行三个街区，来到克罗地亚国家剧院。这里是这个国家最有声望的演出场地，内部装潢带有旧世界镀金装饰的奢华之气。这栋新巴洛克风格建筑于1895年开放，是由奥匈帝国皇帝弗朗兹·约瑟夫(Franz Josef)兴建的，目前既上演各国古典剧作，亦有现代戏剧作品、芭蕾和歌剧。本季剧目包括易卜生(Ibsen)的《玩偶之家》(A Doll’s House)和普契尼(Puccini)的《托斯卡》(Tosca)。

9. Jazzy Nightcap| 9:30 p.m.

9. 睡前爵士 | 晚9点半

Cross the main square to stroll with locals along Tkalciceva Street. Once a creek separating thecontentious residents of Kaptol and Gradec, more than a century later the pedestrian-onlyavenue is lined with boutiques, restaurants and bars. Melin Café is a jazz lounge with amultitiered outdoor terrace and scattered landings outfitted with reclaimed furniture and retro-TV-set cocktail tables. Order a signature Blakey’s coffee (honoring the drummer Art Blakey),which combines espresso, Amaretto di Saronno, Kahlúa, cherry liqueur, Jameson, brown sugarand milk (29 kunas). Then settle in for soulful grooves under the stars.

走过主广场，和本地人一起来到特卡拉奇切瓦街(Tkalciceva Street)。这里曾有一条小溪把爱争吵的卡普托尔与格拉代茨居民分开，一个多世纪之后，这里只有一条步行街，两侧是精品店、饭馆和酒吧。梅林咖啡(MelinCafé)是一家爵士酒吧，有多层户外天台和零散的平台，配着翻修的老式家具和复古电视鸡尾酒桌。在这里来一杯招牌的布莱基咖啡(以爵士鼓手阿尔特·布莱基[Art Blakey]的名字命名)，它混合了浓缩咖啡、萨隆诺杏仁、咖啡蜜(Kahlúa)、樱桃利口酒、尊美醇威士忌(Jameson)、红糖和牛奶(29库纳)。然后坐在星光下欣赏动人的旋律吧。

10. Stylish Brunch | 10 a.m.

10. 时髦早午餐 | 上午10点

Few experiences encapsulate a visit here like brunch at the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel next to thetrain station. Built in 1925 as a luxurious layover for travelers on the Orient Express, the iconicstructure, like the Croatian capital, is a melding of European styles: Secessionist, Baroque, ArtDeco and Art Nouveau. Sit in a leather armchair under chandeliers framed by huge windows inthe hotel’s 1925 Lounge. With views of the sunny Green Horseshoe, order the house specialty:strukli. The handmade pastries are filled with local cottage cheese and baked until golden (60kunas).

造访位于火车站边的萨格勒布游憩酒店(Esplanade Zagreb Hotel)是最具本地风情的体验。这座酒店建成于1925年，原本是为东方快车乘客们兴建的一座豪华中转站。它颇具符号意义，和这座城市一样融合了多种欧洲风格，包括分离主义、巴洛克、装饰艺术和新艺术。来到酒店的1925休息室(1925 Lounge)，坐在皮质扶手椅上，头顶是枝形吊灯，透过巨大的窗子观赏阳光明媚的“绿色蹄铁美景，再来一样酒店的特色：strukli，这是酒店自制的小点心，里面塞满本地产的松软干酪，被烤制成金黄的颜色(60库纳)。

11. Botanical Stroll | 11:30 a.m.

11. 植物之旅 | 上午11点半

Walk off your brunch at the city’s Botanical Garden, which celebrated its 125th anniversary lastyear (free). One block west of the Esplanade, the 11.6-acre garden has some 10,000 plantspecies, which surround secluded benches and grassy pond-side alcoves — perfect places tolay a blanket and reflect on your Zagreb odyssey.

吃完早午餐，步行来到城市的植物园，去年它刚刚过完125周年庆典(免费进入)，从游憩酒店向西一个街区便可到达。它占地11.6英亩，拥有一万余种植物，中间有僻静的长椅和绿荫环绕的池塘凉亭，真是铺块毯子、静静回味这次萨格勒布之旅的好地方。

Hotel J最攀爀栀漀爀渀 (Ilica 14; hotel-jagerhorn.hr), the city’s oldest inn, underwent a completerenovation in 2011. The onetime hunter’s lodge, founded in 1827, is now a beautifully designedhotel with 16 rooms and two suites, a summer patio hosting jazz evenings, and free breakfastand parking. Located on Zagreb’s main avenue and directly underneath Upper Town, J最攀爀栀漀爀渀 is a few-minutes walk from Jelacic Square. Double rooms start at 720 kunas.

Hotel J最攀爀栀漀爀渀 (Ilica 14; hotel-jagerhorn.hr)，这是这座城市最古老的酒店，2011年做过大翻新。这里曾是猎人的住宿之地，于1827年兴建，如今是一处精心设计的酒店，有16个房间和两个套房，夏天经常主办露天爵士晚会、有免费早餐和免费停车。位于萨格勒布主干道，上城正下方，距离捷拉斯加广场只有几步路。双人间720库纳起。

The Hotel President Pantovcak (Pantovcak 52; president-zagreb.com) is something of a secret.Each of the 10 rooms and suites is individually designed with clean Scandinavian overtonesmixed with Persian rugs and artwork from the owner’s collection. Floor-to-ceiling windowslook onto a private garden, which extends to British Square (Britanski trg). The splendidterrace restaurant and lounge are open to the public but cater to hotel guests. Rooms start at750 kunas.

The Hotel President Pantovcak (Pantovcak 52; president-zagreb.com)是个秘密。每10个房间和套房都分别按照洁净的斯堪的纳维亚风格设计，辅以波斯地毯和店主的私人艺术藏品。透过落地窗可以看到私家花园，它一直延伸到不列颠广场(Britanski trg)。华丽的平台餐厅和酒吧对公众开放，但主要为酒店住客提供食物。房间750库纳起。