男士看过来：不同颜色西装怎么配皮鞋

Black shoes and a black suit work great if you’re going to a funeral， but most of the time we’re a little more colorful in our wardrobes.
黑皮鞋和黑西装配极了——假如你要去参加葬礼的话。但多数时间里我们衣柜里会有更多种色彩。
How does a man wearing a navy， light-grey， or brown suit match his shoes with the suit color？
如果男士穿着海军蓝、浅灰色或是棕色的西装，那么同样颜色的鞋子会和衣服相配吗？
Take a moment to get to know the chart below.
花时间看看下面这张图片吧。
It pairs the five most common suit colors — navy， medium or mid-gray，charcoal， brown， and black — with three different shoes to show you which colors work with which leathers.
上面有最常见的几种西装颜色——海军蓝、中灰色、炭黑色、棕色和黑色——以及三种不同的鞋子，从中你能知道哪种颜色的西服和哪种皮鞋相配。
Now， are these shoe matching rules absolute？ Not entirely — but it’s a very safe guide to follow.
那么，这种配对是绝对的吗？不一定——不过是一种非常安全的指导。
If you’re bucking the advice here， it should be because you’re going for a really unique look or you know the rules and make a conscious decision to ignore them！
如果你没有遵从这些建议，或许是因为你想要看起来特立独行或者你明知道这个规则，然后主观作出决定无视它们！
For example， we don’t have the burgundy shoes paired with a black suit. But a rocker might wear a black suit with red Converse All-Stars.
比如，酒红色的鞋子不可能和黑色的西装一起穿，但一位摇滚歌手却有可能穿一件黑色的西装和红色的匡威全明星鞋子。
There are going to be exceptions.
不过凡事总有例外。
But there aren’t many of them， and if you’re sticking to classic business and business-casual dress， let this chart be your guide.
但是例外不多，假如你总是穿经典的商务或是商务休闲服装，就参考这张表来穿吧。
Most of the time it’s not too hard. Strict business formality is easy — a charcoal gray or navy blue suit and plain black shoes.
大部分情况下这都不难。严肃的商务风格很容易——炭灰色或是海军蓝的西装配上浅白色鞋子。
But as the suits (and the business climate) become more relaxed， you get the option of wearing different colors of leather with them. That’s a stumblingblock for a lot of men — and the wrong color of shoes and belt can ruin even a fine suit.
不过随着衣服（以及商务环境）变得越来越休闲，你会有机会选择搭配不同的颜色的皮鞋。对大部分男人来说这都是件令人头疼的事儿——而且穿错了颜色的鞋子和皮带很可能毁掉一件很好的衣服。

Here’s how most of these combinations play out in practical， day-to-day dress：
以下是这几种组合在现实的日常穿着中是怎么搭配起来的：
1. Navy Blue Suits
1.海军蓝西装
Pair with：
搭配：
Black shoes
Brown shoes
Red or burgundy shoes
黑色鞋
棕色鞋
红色或酒红色鞋
Navy can go comfortably with all three of the main color families of men’s leather shoes. You can probably even make a navy suit work with moreexotic colors if you have them， although blue is generally too close to make a good contrast.
海军蓝和所有这三种主要的男士皮鞋色系搭配起来都比较适宜。你甚至还能让海军蓝的西装和一些更有异域风情的颜色搭配，虽然蓝色一般来说容易和其他颜色产生巨大的色差。
The leather color mostly affects the formality and attitude of a navy suit. Black shoes are business dress， while brown are more relaxed， and red or burgundy give it the most playful， social feel.
皮鞋的颜色会最大程度上影响到海军蓝西装的正式程度。商务装穿黑色，休闲装穿棕色，而红色和酒红色则会让人感觉更随意，更具社交性。
2. Medium and Light Grey Suits
2.中度灰或是浅灰色西装
Pair with：
搭配：
Black shoes
Brown shoes
Red or burgundy shoes
黑色鞋
棕色鞋
红色或酒红色鞋
Medium gray suits are less formal than navy suits， and share a similar flexibility. You can pair them effectively with just about any color of leather.
比起海军蓝色的西装，中灰色的西装显得不那么正式，并且也有同样的弹性。它们能和几乎所有颜色的皮鞋相配。
In the case of medium gray， black is the best option when you’re wearing a white shirt and a necktie. It’s still not proper business dress (the suit itself is too light)， but it’s quite typical in offices where suits are mandatory but somewhat relaxed. Brown and burgundy shoes make it more of a casual/social look， and work best when the shirt has a bit of pattern or color to it as well.
就中灰色而言，当你穿着白色的衬衫和领带时黑色就是最好的选择。这也不是合适的商务着装（西装本身就太浅了），但是在那些必须穿西装但可以相对休闲的办公室里这样的打扮却非常典型。灰色和酒红色的鞋子会使它显得更休闲更社交，而当你穿的衬衫也有点这种风格的话就最完美了。
3. Brown Suits
3.棕色西装
Pair with：
搭配：
Brown shoes
Red or burgundy shoes
棕色鞋
红色或酒红色鞋
Do not pair with：
Black shoes
不要搭配：
黑色鞋
Brown’s great with most casual leather shoes. It’s generally better to have the shoe leather darker than the suit (helps keep the eye from being drawn downward)， but either way can work so long as you have a clear contrast.
棕色和大多数休闲皮鞋都能很好地相配。一般来说鞋子的颜色最好比西服的颜色更深一点（这样可以防止眼睛往下面落），不过只要能有清楚的对比，两种方式都可以起作用。
4. Charcoal Grey Suits
4.炭灰色西装
Pair with：
搭配：
Black shoes
Burgundy shoes
黑色鞋
酒红色鞋
Do not pair with：
Brown shoes
不要搭配：
棕色鞋
Here’s where we get to our first firm “no” on the list： don’t pair charcoal suits with brown shoes.
在这里我们看到了列表中第一个“不要”：不要把炭灰色西装和棕色的鞋子配在一起。
Dark browns look like you’re trying for a close match and coming up short. Light browns are too informal， and draw the eye jarringly downward. Plain black works best， or a deep burgundy for a look that’s relaxed but still elegant.
深棕色会让你显得就像穿着短裤去参加婚礼一样。而浅棕色又太不正式了，也会让眼睛往下面瞟。纯黑色是最好的搭配，或者是深酒红色，看起来休闲而又优雅。
5. Black Suits
5.黑色西装
Pair with：
搭配：
Black shoes
黑色鞋
Do not pair with：Brown shoes
Burgundy shoes
不要搭配：棕色鞋酒
红色鞋
Black’s not very flexible. That’s why we generally recommend charcoal gray or navy blue in its place as a first suit. If you own one， pair it with black shoes， and save the outfit for funerals and strict business dress occasions.
黑色并没有多大的弹性。这也是为什么我们一般会推荐穿炭灰色或是海军蓝色。如果你有一件黑色的西装，就搭配一双黑色的鞋子吧。然后把这套衣服留给葬礼或是严肃的商务着装场合。
Any other color of shoe is going to look too casual with black.
其他颜色的鞋子和黑色配在一起会显得太随意。
（实习编辑：于晓伟）