东西方女性的化妆不一样

As the cosmetics world goes global, how will it affect individual nations' ideas of beauty? Now that anyone with internet access can check out the latest catwalk trends and advertising campaigns in international fashion magazines, will make-up trends become homogenised? Will a Mad Men-inspired red lip catch on in China, as it has in New York and London? Will women from Mumbai turn their backs on Bollywood glamour in favour of "the new nude"? Here, industry insiders from major cities around the world report from the front lines of beauty today.

风靡全球的美容业，对世界各国的美容概念有何影响？如今网络上随处可以看到的最新时尚资讯，以及时装杂志上激烈的广告竞争，会让美容趋势变得越来越单一吗？灵感来自《广告狂人》的口红在中国是否也跟在纽约和伦敦一样受欢迎？孟买的女性们是否又会从宝莱坞范儿转投"裸色主义"的怀抱？现在，世界各大主要城市的业内人士为大家带来美容界的最新播报。

London

伦敦

"Catwalk trends take time to trickle down, but when key celebrities wear a look, it can have an instant influence," says make-up artist Cassie Lomas – and the celebrity does not have to be UK-based. "The statement lips we saw on Angelina Jolie at the Oscars is a trend that London girls are sporting," says Lomas, who credits the Kate Middleton effect as well: when the Duchess of Cambridge wore a particular Bourjois nail polish (Rose Lounge), sales soared. "It is still their bestseller," says Lomas, who is also a consultant for the brand. But the influence of New York shouldn't be underestimated, says Nicky Kinnaird, founder of Space NK. "You can't get away without having a manicure and tidy nails any more, and that's the influence of the US."

"T台上的时尚风潮流行起来需要时间，而一旦名人们有个什么新妆容，则能取得立竿见影的效果。"彩妆艺术家卡西•洛马斯（Cassie Lomas）说，并且这些名人不一定非要是英国本土的。"我们在奥斯卡红毯上看到的安吉丽娜•朱莉用的口红，伦敦的女孩儿们也涂得正欢。"洛马斯说，他同样也认同凯特•米德尔顿（Kate Middleton）效应：当这位剑桥公爵夫人（Duchess of Cambridge）涂了一款别致的Bourjois指甲油(Rose Lounge)，卖场里立马卖到脱销。"这款指甲油仍旧是该品牌最畅销的。"洛马斯说，他同时兼任这家品牌的顾问。而来自纽约的影响也不应该被忽视，Space NK的创办人尼基•金纳德（Nicky Kinnaird）说："如果没修剪好指甲，你是绝对不会出门的，这正是受了美国的影响。"

Paris

巴黎

"Parisians do not in any way follow fashion trends that come from the shows – they have their thing and stick to it," says Lloyd Simmonds, creative director of make-up at Yves Saint Laurent. French Vogue editor Emmanuelle Alt is a likely influence on French women, says make-up artist Lisa Eldridge: "She has that typically French, easy, effortless look with the glossy hair, fabulously cut jacket, no make-up except for a bit of bronze – the most I've seen her with is a bit of black smudged pencil."

"巴黎人不太会受秀场的影响——他们有自己的风格并且非常坚持。"Yves Saint Laurent彩妆部的创意总监劳埃德•西蒙斯（Lloyd Simmonds）说。《Vogue》杂志法国版的编辑艾曼纽•奥特（Emmanuelle Alt）或许就是受了法国女性影响，彩妆艺术家丽莎•艾尔德里奇（Lisa Eldridge）说："她的样子非常法式、简单、不费力气，配上有光泽的头发、剪裁极好的外套，除了一点点眼妆之外，根本不化妆——我见到她的大多数时候她都只用了一点点黑色眼影。"

Bright splashes of red, orange and pink lipstick featured heavily at the shows but red is already a Parisian classic. "I have seen a lot of Parisian women wearing bright red and I can see them continuing to wear a lot of bright orange or fuchsia red lips," says Simmonds. YSL's current bestselling lipstick is Rouge Laque: a rich, glossy red stain (£22.50). "The rest is still always very minimal. That's just a very Parisian approach," says Simmonds. "Their mothers teach them how to do it properly," says Eldridge.

醒目的红色、橘色还有粉色口红在秀场上层不出穷，但实际上红色一直都是巴黎人的经典唇色。"我看过许许多多巴黎女人都涂着鲜艳的红唇，并且我能想见她们会用上更多鲜艳的橘色或者紫红色。"西蒙斯说。YSL目前最为畅销的口红是Rouge Laque：丰盈亮泽的红色（售价22.50英镑）。"库存非常少。这是非常巴黎式的。"西蒙斯说。"她们从妈妈那里学到如何将之使用得最为恰当。"艾尔德里奇说道。

New York

纽约

"In New York City, summer is about ­natural-looking make-up, glowing skin and eye shadows in warm neutrals," says Bobbi Brown, whose summer bestsellers include long-wear make-up, in particular a brilliant dark brown gel eyeliner (£17). Yet the New York make-up artist Kabuki, who is also artistic director of the British cosmetics company My Face, thinks the red lip will catch on. Indeed, a sheer, blood red lipstick stain by Lipstick Queen is Space NK's bestseller. Meanwhile, "Unusual nail colours are bigger than ever," says Kabuki. The bestselling colour at Space NK in New York is The Darkest Emerald (£12) and Hip Pop (a shimmer coral) by British nail company Rococo. "Maybe that is an extension of the now classic navy and dark, vampy colours," says Eldridge, "but I still don't see it working in the average New York office."

"在纽约，夏天便是自然风格的妆容、容光焕发的皮肤还有中性暖色的眼影。"鲍比•布朗（Bobbi Brown）说，他的夏季畅销款包括长效彩妆，尤其是一款光泽感十足的深棕色眼线胶（售价17英镑）。不过纽约的彩妆艺术家，同时兼任英国化妆品公司My Face艺术总监的Kabuki却认为红唇即将流行。的确，一款清透醒目的红色Lipstick Queen红色口红成为了Space NK的热卖商品。同时，"颜色别致的指甲油也比以往更受欢迎。"Kabuki说。纽约Space NK里卖得最好的一款是英国指甲油品牌Rococo的The Darkest Emerald（售价12英镑）和Hip Pop（发着微光的珊瑚色）。"或许这是目前经典的海军蓝、暗色，还有粉色的一个延伸，"艾尔德里奇说，但是我在纽约的办公室里还是很少见到。"

Milan

米兰

"Milanese women still like all that sexy stuff: you see a lot of blondes – with the lashes, the smoky eye, that Donatella plumped-up nude lip. It's almost Kim Kardashian," says Lisa Eldridge, who adds that the classic Hollywood look is popular too. Photographer and former creative director of British Vogue Robin Derrick points to two distinct beauty looks in Milan: "Miuccia [Prada]-style, minimal yet very well done during the day, and then the less fashiony people, who are, if anything, quite evening in their look: they will wear a cocktail dress for work, with the smoky eyes and beige lips."

"米兰女人依旧热爱所有性感的事物——你会看到许许多多尤物——浓密的睫毛、烟熏眼妆，多纳泰拉（Donatella，范思哲掌门人）般丰盈的嘴唇，像极了金•卡戴珊 （Kim Kardashian，美国名模）。"丽莎•艾尔德里奇说，她又补充说经典的好莱坞风格也同样流行。摄影师、《Vogue》杂志英国版前创意总监鲁宾•德里克（Robin Derrick）指出米兰有两种典型的女性装扮："缪西娅•普拉达（Miuccia Prada）风格，简约但是非常适合日间活动；还有一种就是什么时候都像是在过晚上：她们会穿着晚礼服去上班，还带着烟熏的眼妆和褐色的唇妆。"

Sao Paulo

圣保罗

"We end up mixing US and European summer references with our fall/winter," says Victoria Ceridono, beauty editor of Vogue Brazil. "This season a great influencer is the feminine, pastel trend: its delicate and perfect for day. Louis Vuitton and Chanel showed beautiful looks," she says. Indeed, the bestselling MAC cosmetic in Sao Paulo is a pale fuchsia lipstick called Snob (£13.50), which has a waiting list. Yet, it's now winter in Brazil, albeit mild. According to Ceridono: "Deep red and wine lipstick is big – Brazilians are used to wearing bright reds and pinks, so it is a natural evolution for the colder weather." Overseas influence is increasing as more brands move in (Sephora launched last month), but for now MAC lipsticks and Benefit primers are popular foreign brands – and "BB [blemish balm] cream fever is starting to grow," says Ceridono. Brazilian model Gisele is still a reference, as is the model Isabeli Fontana, but a big influences on women's beauty is the Brazilian telenovela, or soap operas, with its glamorous look.

"在我们的秋冬流行里，已经不再参考混搭欧美夏季潮流了。"《Vogue》杂志巴西版的美容编辑维多利亚•赛瑞多诺（Victoria Ceridono）说。"这一季最受欢迎的是女性、柔和的风格：非常精致，适合日间。路易威登（Louis Vuitton）和香奈儿（Chanel）都有着很好的示范。"她说。的确，在圣保罗最畅销的MAC化妆品是一款名为Snob的浅樱红色口红（售价13.50英镑），供不应求。然而，虽然天气还算暖和，但现在巴西仍然是冬天。按照赛瑞多诺的说法："深红色和酒红色的口红很畅销——巴西女人之前喜欢涂亮红色和粉色，因此这也算是天气转凉之后的一个自然变化。随着更多品牌的进入（丝芙兰就在上个月在巴西开业），海外影响也在增加，但是目前MAC的口红和Benefit的妆前液是最畅销的外国品牌商品—— 人们对BB霜的兴趣也在渐渐变得狂热。"赛瑞多诺说。巴西名模吉赛尔（Gisele）和伊莎贝莉•芳塔娜（Isabeli Fontana）是人们模仿的对象，但更能影响女人们的则是那些美艳的电视明星或者肥皂剧演员。

Moscow

莫斯科

"This summer the most popular trends are graphic eyeliner, coral lipstick, wet gloss on eyelids and lips and pastels," says Elena Petrova, beauty and living director of Vogue Russia. "My friends and colleagues tend to follow more or less the same make-up routine from day to day. They pick what looks good on them and are less likely to experiment than women in Europe or the States." Still, she says, "Russians love nail polish, especially in summer ... the brightest and trendiest shades." Maria Taranenko, beauty director of Elle Russia, adds: "They will match the make-up with their look, with nail polish and shoes of the same colour."

"今夏最流行的是醒目的眼线、珊瑚色的口红、润泽的眼睑和嘴唇，柔和的颜色"《Vogue》杂志俄罗斯版的美容与生活编辑伊莲娜•佩特洛娃（Elena Petrova）说，"我的朋友们和同事或多或少地会一直追随同一种化妆风格。她们会挑选那些适合自己的，跟欧美女性相比，她们较少尝试新事物。"她还讲到："俄罗斯人喜欢指甲油，尤其是在夏天……还有最醒目和时髦的墨镜。"《Elle》杂志俄罗斯版的美容总监玛莉亚•塔拉年科（Maria Taranenko）补充说："她们会将妆容、指甲油还有鞋子的颜色搭配起来。"

Mumbai

孟买

"Peach, pink or coral lip stains are popular. Cheek stains and cream blush in bronze, apricot or peach are on trend. And for evening red lips are still big news, with flashes of orange showing up," says Parizaad Khan, beauty editor of Vogue India. "Kohl will always be popular with Indian women, no matter the current season or trend," she says. Little wonder MAC's three bestselling cosmetics are black eyeliners. "We're doing winged liner for evening and a lot of neon and bright pops of colour on fingers and toes," Khan continues. "Bollywood is probably the single largest influencer ... but Indian women are extremely aware of international make-up trends, which trickle down via make-up artists and also hairstylists. I've seen a number of girls with bright coloured panels in their hair, which they may or may not be aware was seen on the spring/summer runway at DSquared," says Khan.

"桃红色、粉色还有珊瑚色的口红是很受欢迎的。此外还有偏棕色、杏黄色和有桃红色的腮红也很流行。对于晚妆来说，红唇加上一点橘色依旧是不二之选。"《Vogue》杂志印度版的美容编辑帕里扎德•可汗（Parizaad Khan）说，"眼影粉一直是印度女性的最爱，无论什么季节，无论怎样的流行趋势。"她说。奇妙的是MAC排名前三的畅销化妆品都是黑色眼线。"我们会为晚妆花上飞翘的眼线，以及为手指和脚趾涂上亮丽的颜色。"可汗补充说，"宝莱坞或许是最大的影响源……但印度女性们在彩妆艺术家和美发师的推广下已经意识到了国际的美容潮流。我看到许多的女孩子挑染她们的头发，这或许是从DSquared的春夏T台上学来的。"可汗说。

Beijing and Shanghai

北京和上海

"Vogue is saying sky blue or bright red nails – the Chinese have beautiful hands and feet and they love decorated nails," says Kathy Phillips, international beauty director of Condé Nast Asia Pacific. Yet, she continues: "I don't think they think in terms of trends. Make-up is not a big thing and you very rarely see women in lipstick; there is more interest in skincare." The weather plays a part in this: "In most places summer is too hot to wear make-up; it is important to look clean," says Helena Hu, beauty director of Elle China. And Chinese actresses are a reference point. "Fan Bing Bing is the most popular beauty idol today," says Hu. The most popular received trend of the summer? "The Chanel trend with the pearls in the hair is hugely popular. The Chinese love hair accessories and the idea of putting decoration in your hair as a way to get it out of the way and look pretty," says Phillips.

"《Vogue》杂志预告了天蓝色或艳红色的指甲油将会成为流行——中国人的手脚都很漂亮，他们也热衷于装饰指甲。"康泰纳仕亚太区国际美容总监凯西•菲利普斯（Kathy Phillips）这么说道。不过，她又继续说："我不认为他们考虑过流行趋势。彩妆并非一件不得了的事，你很少会看到涂口红的女性；她们更关注护肤。"气候因素对此有部分影响："在许多地方，夏天化妆实在是太热了；看起来干净清爽才是最重要的。"《Elle》杂志中文版美容总监Helena Hu说。而中国的女明星们成为了参照对象。"范冰冰如今已经成为最红的美容典范。"Hu说。那么最流行的夏季趋势是什么？"发间点缀珍珠的香奈儿（Chanel）风最受欢迎。中国人喜欢发饰，头发上的饰品会让人看起来很俏丽。"菲利普斯说。

Tokyo

东京

"In the spring it was pink cheeks and lips and for summer it will be coral," says make-up artist and creative director for RMK Cosmetics, Tolu. This ties in with Vogue Japan's 1950s pink and coral summer beauty message, set to feature on its beauty pages. "I think those slightly cold colours work with their skin," says Phillips, "but, as a whole, Japanese women are very unmade-up. They are much more concerned with the shape of their face, their eyes being big and skin being dewy." Though Phillips does not think western trends have much effect on the Japanese beauty market, make-up artist Shinobu Abe disagrees: "Japanese women copy western girls' eyes, to make them look bigger and rounder. They curl lashes, apply layers of mascara, then false lashes," he says.

"春天流行粉色的腮红和口红，而夏天则会是珊瑚色当道。"彩妆艺术家以及化妆品牌RMK的创意总监Tolu说。这与《Vogue》杂志日本版美容专题所做的粉色与珊瑚色的五十年代风格极为吻合。"我认为这些稍微有点冷色调的颜色很衬她们的皮肤。"菲利普斯说，"但是，总的来说，日本女性还是不太爱彩妆。她们更多关注的是自己的脸型，眼睛要大，皮肤要滋润。"虽然菲利普斯认为西方的彩妆趋势对日本化妆品市场影响不大，但彩妆艺术家阿部忍（Shinobu Abe）却持有不同观点："日本女性们模仿西方女孩儿的眼妆，好让自己的眼睛看起来又大又圆。她们把睫毛夹得翘翘的，涂上一层层的睫毛膏，还装上假睫毛。"他这么说道。