记者探秘：瑞典冰雪酒店奇妙之旅

瑞典有一家冰雪酒店，全部由冰块建造而成。住在这样的酒店里是种什么体验？虽然冰雪酒店的仿造者众多，但是瑞典的这家冰雪酒店却是世界上第一家，始建于1989年，坐落于瑞典极北的小镇朱卡斯亚维上。起初建造冰雪酒店的想法被人认为很疯狂，但后来证明，这个想法十分成功。

Of all the hotels I've ever been to, it was my recent stay at Sweden's Icehotel which elicited the most questions.

在我去过的所有酒店中，最受人们关注的是我最近去的瑞典冰雪酒店。

Are you mad? Isn't it really cold? What do you sleep on? What do you wear?

你疯了吗？真的不冷吗？你睡什么？你穿什么？

In short, yes it's really cold, I slept on a bed genuinely crafted from ice, and I kept warm thanks to the strange space-age 'duvet suit' they provided me.

简而言之，非常冷，我睡在冰制成的床上，多亏了酒店提供的像太空服样式的奇异羽绒服使我保暖。

While the Icehotel has inspired copycats around the world, it all started here in the far north of Sweden back in 1989.

如今全球各地纷纷模仿冰雪酒店创意，1989年，最早的冰雪酒店出现在瑞典北部。

Nestled in the small town of Jukkasjarvi, it was first built by hotel pioneer Yngve Bergqvist - who was, at the time, regarded to be mad as a box of frogs.

酒店业先锋Yngve Bergqvist在小城镇朱卡斯亚维建造了第一家冰雪酒店，当时人们认为他的想法太疯狂了。

 冰旅馆使用冰块造墙，驯鹿皮作门。

As it turned out, the concept was a roaring success and each winter since then, artists from around the world have been flying in to construct the 65-room palatial structure from scratch, using ice from the nearby Torne River.

可冰雪酒店的建造却出人意料地获得了巨大的成功。建成后每一个冬天，世界各地的艺术家们都飞来此地，使用附近托尔讷河的冰，从头开始建造这65个富丽堂皇的房间。

Come summer, when the sun finally wrestles its way through the winter-long darkness, the Icehotel melts back into the river from whence it came.

当太阳终于战胜漫长的阴暗冬天，迎来夏天之时，冰雪酒店又会融化回托尔讷河。

This year, for the first time ever, its newly opened 365 wing will remain standing all season round, kept cool - although it sounds impossible - entirely using solar power.

今年，冰雪酒店首次尝试全年开放，保持凉爽，且完全使用太阳能。虽然这听起来根本不可能。

My Icehotel experience kicked off with an awe-inspiring tour through the gleaming corridors and vault-like rooms - each one more quirky, it seemed, than the last.

走过闪闪发光的走廊和一间比一间更古怪的拱顶房间，我开始了令人惊叹的冰雪酒店初体验。

The band of artists spend months with tractors, ice picks and chainsaws to create this architectural feat - and the finished rooms are nothing short of breathtaking.

建筑师们花了几个月的时间，使用牵引机，冰锥和链锯创作出这个建筑壮举。完工后的房间令人惊叹。

Following the tour, it was dinner fit for a (Vi) King in the property’s ski chalet-esque restaurant.

参观结束后，在滑雪木屋风格的餐厅能享受到国王待遇般的晚宴。

The food here is true to Lapland's native staples: chunky slices of reindeer filet served with creamy potato mash, glossy wine-infused gravy, and an array of plump red lingonberries. Desert is served on rustic ice plates.

这里的食物是正宗的拉普兰本土品牌：浇上奶油土豆泥的厚驯鹿肉片，美酒加肉汤，和饱满的红豆越橘。质朴的冰盘子上盛着甜点。

After dinner followed a lengthy stint in the cavernous, candle-lit Ice Bar sipping neat whiskey from a glass which was not a glass, but in fact an ice goblet. After that? It was finally time for bed.

晚饭后，在一个洞穴状的，点满蜡烛的冰酒吧驻足。喝一杯装在看起来像玻璃杯的冰杯里的纯威士忌酒。之后呢？到睡觉时间了。

First, I am assigned a spacious walk-in 'locker' in the hotel's warm building. This is where guests leave their suitcases, change out of their ski gear and wriggle into their snoozing garment - best described as the love child between a sleeping bag and an astronaut suit.

刚开始，酒店在暖楼给我分配了一个宽敞的步入式“更衣室”。这是客人们放置行李箱、更换滑雪装备和睡衣的地方，这种睡衣可以理解为睡袋和宇航员服的结合体。

The only thing that comes into my ice bedroom with me is my phone (I can't sleep without noise) and my stuffed monkey (yes, pathetic).

我的冰卧室里唯一的东西是我的手机 Fit snugly into a groove of my stately ice bed is a waterproof mattress topped with a reindeer hide. I shuffle onto it in my suit. There's a single light switch within arm's reach. I flick it off.

我的冰床上塞着一张上有驯鹿皮的防水床垫。我穿着衣服躺在床上，在伸手可及的地方有一个电灯开关。我关了灯。

And so begins my strange and glorious night in what is, once it's dark and silent, effectively a large freezer.

在安静的黑夜里，这儿可以说是一个大冰箱。我在这儿开启了一个奇妙的夜晚。

I slept soundly, snug as a bug in a rug all through the night, until I was woken offensively early in the morning (7am) with a steaming mug of warm lingonberry juice.

像一只睡在地毯上的小虫一样,我舒适地睡了一夜。早晨7点，我被一杯暖暖的越橘汁的香气唤醒。

This elixir, I’m afraid, did nothing to ease the grim task of emerging from hibernation. It was the only time during my stay at the Icehotel that I can truly say I was cold.

恐怕这杯“灵药”也不容易唤醒避寒的我。这是我呆在冰雪酒店里，唯一感到寒冷的时候。

After waddling back to sanctuary in the warm building and being reunited with my belongings, it was home time.

蹒跚回暖楼与我的行李团聚，到了回家的时间。

Seldom few spend more than one night here, and it's certainly a long way to voyage for a single night. It's also expensive, with rooms starting at £220 and running up to around £1,000.

很少有人在这儿住超过一晚，一晚已经是一场漫长的旅程了。这儿消费很高，最初的房费为220英镑 But was it worth it? Absolutely. And would I do it again? You bet I would.

但值得吗？答案是肯定的。我会再去那儿吗？当然啦。