中国人的制服情结

Uniforms are a pervasive part of many societies. But in China there seems to be a particular adherence to uniforms. From entering the subway, passing security and stepping onto the train, you will have encountered not one, but multiple uniformed staff. Walking down the street will have meant dodging bright orange street cleaners, food-delivery staff on scooters or identically dressed salon workers receiving their morning briefing. Upon entering your office, you may have passed uniformed security guards on your way to colleagues dressed in suits and ties. They’re inescapable.

制服是许多社会普遍存在的一部分。但是中国人似乎更钟情于制服。当你乘地铁、过安检和坐火车时，你都会看到穿着各种制服的工作人员。当你走在街上，随处可以看到穿着明亮橘色制服的清洁工，骑着踏板车的送餐员以及接受早训的沙龙服务员。当你去办公室时，你会遇见穿着制服的保安，以及西装革履的同事。制服无处不在。

The uniform's place in Chinese society can be traced back through the country’s history. As in most places across the world, they have been worn throughout the ages in the military to distinguish between factions and provide protection. Each dynasty favored a different style for its soldiers. Drawings of soldiers from the Eastern Zhou Dynasty (770-221 B.C.) show studded boots and uniforms with heavy arm and torso protection, whereas similar depictions from the Sui Dynasty (A.D. 581-618) illustrate draped and layered military wear. Uniforms were often as fierce as the battles their wearers fought in.

制服在中国社会的地位是有历史可以追溯的。就像在世界其他地方一样，士兵穿制服，一是为了区分军事派别，二是为了提供保护。每一个朝代的士兵制服的风格都不同，从东周时期手绘士兵的画像可以看出，他们穿着沉重的靴子和制服以保护手臂和身体，同样的，从隋朝时期士兵的画像可以看出，他们都披着一层一层的盔甲。制服常常是士兵在激烈战斗中最好的保护。

Uniforms were also designed to show status and mark levels of authority. In China, the Terracotta Warriors in Xi’an were molded to wear styles commonly found in the Qin Dynasty (221-207 B.C.). Officers' ranks were discernible by their dress, with generals wearing a dual long jacket, long pants, thigh protectors, a crest hat and a pair of boots with square tips.

制服也通常用来显示权威者的地位和阶级。在中国，西安兵马俑的穿着常见于秦朝。通过他们的穿着，可以明显地分辨出军官的军衔，例如，将军都是穿着两层长袍，长裤子，一双长方靴和带着一顶帽子。

But at points throughout history, uniforms were deemed fashion items too. Zhongshan suits (Chinese tunic suits, above) were hugely popular among males in 1950s, with women’s clothing based on a similar style. Introduced by Sun Yat-Sen and made famous by Mao Zedong who favored it in public, hence the nickname ‘Mao suit’, the clothing became a form of national dress。

然而在历史上，制服也曾是时尚物品。中山装（如上图所示）在20世纪50年代非常受欢迎，甚至女性的服装也是类似的风格。中山装是由孙中山发明的，由于毛泽东非常喜欢在公共场合穿，因此中山装又称“毛装。自此中山装成为了一种民族服饰。

In the military, clothing now follows the generic western style of pants, jacket and a hat. The Zhongshan suit has also undergone modernization. With an altered shape and more streamlined look, the once shapeless garment is now fitted and more flattering for the male body. But while it is still a popular choice for Chinese leaders during important events, tunic suits are rarely seen in wider society.

军事上，服装一般都是遵循西式的风格，长裤、夹克以及帽子。原本没什么型的中山装也经历了现代化，款式上有了改变，更流线型的外观、更合体的剪裁凸显出男性的身材美。尽管在重要场合，中山装仍是中国领导人的首要选择，但是在社会日常生活中很少见。

Yet, there are many places where uniforms live on. This is the case in the hospitality industry in particular, explains Catalina Calin, director of Calin Fashion Academy in Beijing.

北京Calin时装学院校长Catalina Calin称，仍然有很多地方需要制服，尤其是服务业。

“In Europe, you don’t see uniforms that often [compared to China]. Hospitality is the one industry that is still using them because they can project the type of service or professionalism that you are expecting, she says. “A uniform is very important for how a client sees you, but it’s also important for how the employee is feeling. The uniform has to be fitted right for the person to feel confident and beautiful.

“与中国相比，欧洲穿制服的人不那么常见。从事服务业的人仍然穿制服，因为这可以投射出你所期望的服务和专业，她还说，“制服是客户如何看待你的一个标准，但员工的感觉也很重要，合身的制服穿在身上能够展现自信和美丽。

Calin believes there will be more emphasis on uniforms’ appearance in the future: “Chinese ladies are starting to become more conscious of their appearance and beauty. This flows through to the places they work, which have to fit their needs, she says, citing staff the New World Hotel’s Yin on 12 bar as an example of progression. “They wear short black skirts, rock-style shoes and dark make-up. This brings a very cool image to the bar.

Calin认为，未来将会更加重视制服的外观，她说“中国女性越来越在意自己的外表。她们工作的地方也需满足她们的这一需求。以New World Hotel酒吧的员工为例，“她们穿黑色短裙，摇滚风的鞋子，画着烟熏妆，这带给人一种非常酷的印象。

But China’s love affair with uniforms stretches far beyond hospitality. While there is no single explanation for this, it may reflect a more inherently collectivist culture, where self-identity is shaped by group memberships. In the workplace, or in schools, people feel a stronger sense of self if they are able to define themselves as part of a group.

但是在中国，不仅仅是服务业钟情于制服，虽然对此没有单一的解释，但是这可能反应了一种内在的集体文化，自我认同往往体现在集体关系中。在工作场所或者学校，如果能够成为集体中的一部分，那么他们就有很强的自我认同感。