咖啡理发店 打破美食美发界限

Every couple of weeks, Andrew Livingston, 22, a co-founder of a Brooklyn men's wear company, stopson his way home from work for a drink — either aglass of pale ale or an espresso — in a setting wherehe typically finds like-minded guys.

今年22岁的安德鲁·利文斯顿(Andrew Livingston)是布鲁克林一家男装公司的联合创始人。每隔两个星期，在下班回家的路上，他就会去喝点什么，不是一杯苦啤，便是一杯espresso。在那里，他总能找到一些和自己志趣相投的朋友。

His destination: the Williamsburg location of BlindBarber, where $45 haircuts are offered alongside 10 types of beer, including four varieties ontap, and cappuccinos made with Blue Bottle coffee and prepared in an airy cafe adjacent to thehairdressing space. Along with his drink order, Mr. Livingston gets a trim while seated in one offour vintage salon chairs.

他去的就是Blind Barber理发店在威廉斯堡(Williamsburg)的店面，那里45美元(约合人民币279元)的理发服务配有10款酒水饮品，包括4种不同的桶装啤酒，和几款在理发店旁一家通风的咖啡店里用蓝樽咖啡(BlueBottle coffee)调制的卡布奇诺。利文斯顿坐在店内四把高级沙龙椅中的一把椅子上，一边选择饮品下单，一边等着理发。

“It’s a nice spot to kind of catch your breath, he said. “For guys, especially in a place like NewYork, it’s important to have an environment like that, where you can just kind of de-stress,chill and talk.

“这是个不错的地方，很有吸引力，他说。“尤其是在纽约这样的城市里，对男性而言，能有个那样的环境让你释放压力、好好休息并聊聊天是非常重要的。

Blind Barber’s co-founder Jeff Laub said: “It’s not just about making $3 on a coffee. That coffeeis supposed to start a conversation, develop a friendship and then hopefully spark somethingelse.

Blind Barber的创始人之一杰夫·劳布(Jeff Laub)说：“这不只是为了在一杯咖啡上赚3美元(约合人民币19元)。有了那杯咖啡，就可以开始交谈，可以建立友谊，进而产生新的想法。

The cafe-barbershop is a growing trend. Dr. Alon Gratch, a clinical psychologist who wrote “IfMen Could Talk: Translating the Secret Language of Men, said that such a place “seems new, inthat it provides a space for conversation.

现在，咖啡厅式的理发店越来越流行了。一位写了《解读男人心：翻译男人密码》(If Men Could Talk:Translating the Secret Language of Men)的临床心理学家阿龙• 葛瑞奇(Alon Gratch)说，这样一处地方“显得有新意，原因在于这里提供了一处可以交谈的场所。

“It is bridging the gap a little bit and moving in the direction of what women do, but in a moreunique ‘guy’ way, he said. “The other traditional places for guys to hang out together arebars, which are very noisy, so there’s no real potential for conversation, or sports events,and the same goes for them.

“这里把男女之间的差距缩小了一点，原本女人做的事，男人也可以去做了，但方式更加男性化，他说。“过去，男人们往往在酒吧里聚会，但那里的环境非常吵闹，不太适合彼此交谈，再就是一些体育活动，但情况也是一样。

Strictly speaking, these establishments do not bar women, but most schedule appointments attight intervals to accommodate short haircuts. They typically feature straight-razor shavesand beard trims prominently on their concise menus of services.

严格来说，这些地方并不拒绝女人，但多数理发店由于预约都排得很满，所以接的都是一些剪短发的活儿。这些理发店往往都把剃须与修髯两项业务一目了然地列在他们那份简明的服务清单上。

Catering particularly to a style-conscious clientele, these shops list haircut prices several timesthat of a traditional men’s walk-in barbershop, and the décor has more in common with afarm-to-table restaurant or men's wear boutique than a beauty salon (except for a prominentdisplay of scissors, combs and glass jars of Barbicide).

由于这些理发店迎合的是一群有时尚意识的客户，所以他们开列的价格也比那些随到随剪的传统男性理发店要高数倍，而且这些理发店的装修也更像一家“农场直供餐桌的餐厅，或是一家男装精品店，而非美发沙龙(只不过店内到处都能看到剪刀、梳子与美发产品Barbicide的玻璃罐)。

Although coifs and comestibles would not seem to have much in common, for a specificdemographic, a cappuccino made with locally roasted, ethically grown beans is a naturalaccompaniment to high-caliber haircuts.

虽然美发与美食似乎相去甚远，然而，对某些特定的人群而言，一杯以栽培得当、当地烘焙的咖啡豆烹煮而成的卡布奇诺，自然与那些高档理发店相得益彰。

“It’s definitely the same group of customers, said Steve Marks, who owns Persons of Interest,a barbershop that teamed up with Parlor Coffee to serve espresso drinks at its Williamsburglocation. “It’s all one piece. The same people who are going to get a great haircut are the samepeople who are keen to have the best coffee.

“这显然是同一群客户，Persons of Interest理发店的所有者史蒂夫·马克思(Steve Marks)说，他在威廉斯堡的门店与Parlor Coffee咖啡店携手合作，为客人提供espresso咖啡。“没有差别。愿意做漂亮发型的是那些人，喜欢喝上等咖啡的也是那些人。

As Dillon Edwards, the founder of Parlor Coffee, put it, “The guy that will spend $45 on ahaircut will also spend $5 on a cup of coffee.

正如Parlor Coffee的创始人狄龙·爱德华兹(Dillon Edwards)所言，“愿意花45美元做头发的人，自然也愿意再花5美元喝杯咖啡。

Even in neighborhoods saturated with coffee bars and hair salons, new combinationbusinesses along these lines continue to pop up, having acquired the necessary cafe or liquorlicenses. In March, Cotter Barber opened in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, complete with a La Marzoccomanual espresso machine perched on a reclaimed wood counter in front and four antiquebarber chairs in back. (It is somewhat more unisex, but the majority of the clientele is male.)At the Williamsburg location of Fellow Barber, coffee service was introduced in February. Bothcafe-barbershops get their coffee beans from artisanal roasters (San Francisco’s Four BarrelCoffee and Tandem Coffee of Portland, Me.).

即便在已经遍布咖啡馆与美发店的社区里，这种二合一的新型商业模式也在不断涌现，它们还取得了咖啡酒水类产品的经营执照。今年三月，Cotter Barber理发店在布鲁克林的绿点区开业了，店内配有一台LaMarzocco的特浓咖啡手动烹调机，就放在前面一个可循环利用的木质柜台上，另外还有四把古董美发椅放在后面(虽然这家店男女皆宜，但大部分主顾都是男性)。Fellow Barber理发店于今年二月在威廉斯堡的门店中开始提供咖啡。这两家店目前都在向一些手工烘焙咖啡豆的商家(例如旧金山的Four Barrel咖啡店与缅因州波特兰的Tandem咖啡店)购买咖啡豆。

The combination of barbershops and beverages extends well beyond Brooklyn. In Toronto, forexample, there is a bar inside Rod, Gun & Barbers, where cigar smoking is alsoencouraged. In San Francisco, Peoples Barber & Shop serves cold beer, as does the DukeBarber Co. in Philadelphia. The Modern Man, a chain of five salons in Portland, Ore., offers beerand bourbon from local purveyors. Fellow Barber plans to add a bar to its Detroit location.

而这种酒水结合理发的服务已不再局限于布鲁克林了。例如在多伦多，理发店Rod, Gun & Barbers在店内设有一个吧台，在那里抽雪茄是受到鼓励的。在旧金山，Peoples Barber & Shop 理发店可提供冰啤，而在费城，Duke Barber Co.理发店也一样。在俄勒冈州的波特兰市，有五家门店的连锁美发沙龙TheModern Man可提供来自当地供应商的啤酒与波旁威士忌。而在底特律，Fellow Barber理发店正打算在其门店内增设一个吧台。

In the years before the new breed came along, the popularity of barbershops was on thewane. According to “Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History, they went into a slump in themid-’60s, and thousands went out of business. In the ’90s, books like “The AmericanBarbershop: A Closer Look at a Disappearing Place, by Mic Hunter, and “The VanishingAmerican Barbershop: An Illustrated History of Tonsorial Art 1860-1960, by Ronald S. Barlow,suggested they were all but finished.

在这些新生代的理发店出现之前，传统理发店的人气多年来已经每况愈下。据《美发百科：一部文化史》(Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History)记载，在20世纪60年代中期，理发店数量骤减，成千上万家店面关门大吉。而在90年代，诸如麦克·亨特(Mic Hunter)的《美国理发店：近距离观察正在消失的地方》(TheAmerican Barbershop: A Closer Look at a Disappearing Place)与罗纳德·S·巴洛(Ronald S. Barlow)的《正在消失的美国理发店：图解1860-1960理发艺术史》(The Vanishing American Barbershop: AnIllustrated History of Tonsorial Art )等书就曾指出，理发店差一点就不复存在了。

“They were associated with a generation of postwar men — either World War I or World War II— who had very short hair, very corporate hair, said Dr. Allan Peterkin, a professor ofpsychiatry at the University of Toronto and the author of three books on men’s grooming. “Then you get into the ’60s, with the hippies, and the ’70s, with the mustache swingers. In the’70s and ’80s, you started to see more unisex salons, when men had more elaborate haircuts,and they thought that the barber couldn’t do it.

“这种情况涉及战后那一代的男人——不管是‘一战’还是‘二战’——他们当时都留着非常短的头发，有非常好打理的发型，多伦多大学的一位精神病学教授阿兰·彼得金博士(Dr. Allan Peterkin)说，他还写了三本关于男性穿着打扮的著作。“然后进入60年代，流行嬉皮士，再到70年代，流行长须浪子。在70年代至80年代，你开始看见，有更多男女皆宜的美发沙龙，那时候男人梳着更讲究的发型，但他们觉得这样的发型在理发店里做不出来。

“Today, a lot of men are wearing their hair short — the hipsters wear short, short cuts, even ifthey have bushy beards — so it’s a swing back to shorter hairstyles; barbers were always theones who were the best at those.

“如今，有许多男人都留起了短发——那些嬉波士们(hipsters)则留着超短发，哪怕他们蓄了浓密的长胡须——所以，发型潮流又回到了较短的风格;这是理发师们从来都很擅长的一种发型。

The cafe-barbershop hybrids are regaining the cultural territory held by barbershops in thedays before the decline.

这种咖啡理发混合的商业模式重新占领了传统理发店衰落之前所攻占的那片文化领域。

“These combinations are almost like community centers, said Emma McKay, the executiveeditor of AskMen, a male-centric website. “In modern society, guys are lacking men-only spaces,and the barbershop still works as a male-first space.

“这些结合了两种服务的门店几乎成了社区里的中心地带，一家男性门户网站AskMen的执行编辑艾玛·麦凯(Emma McKay)说。“在现代社会中，男人们都缺少仅供男性交流的空间，但这些理发店作为一个男性优先的地方仍然有这样的作用。

Stylish men find the environment at such places more inviting than that of a no-frillsneighborhood barbershop.

有些追求时尚的男性发现，这些理发店的环境比没有装修的社区理发店更吸引人。

Carlos Garcia, 32, a restaurant management consultant, still goes now and then for the $10haircut at a walk-in shop near his apartment in Gowanus, Brooklyn, where he waits his turnwhile sitting in a vinyl-covered chair. But he has found the experience at Cotter Barber to bemore pleasant. There he sits with an Americano in hand; on nice days, he can relax in theshop’s backyard.

今年32岁的餐厅管理顾问卡洛斯·加西亚(Carlos Garcia)仍然会偶尔光顾在他的布鲁克林区格瓦纳斯(Gowanus)公寓附近的一家10美元(约合人民币62元)一次、随到随剪的理发店，他坐在店里的一把塑料椅子上等着轮到自己理发。但他发现，在Cotter Barber理发店的体验更加愉快。他手里端着一杯美式咖啡坐在店里;天气好的时候，他还可以在这家店的后院里消遣。

“I totally appreciate going in and having coffee I enjoy, since there’s usually a long wait, Mr.Garcia said.

“我真的很愿意进去点一杯我喜欢的咖啡，因为通常都要等上好一会儿，加西亚说。

Jon Wilde, an articles editor at GQ who lives in Brooklyn, said the cafe-barbeshops are “makingthat haircut feel like an experience and not an obligation. These places are inching us towardthat hashtag ‘treat yourself’ moment, where you don’t mind going and taking care of yourself alittle bit.

《GQ》杂志的编辑、现住布鲁克林的乔恩·王尔德(Jon Wilde)说，这种咖啡厅式理发店“让人觉得理发像是一次体验，而不是什么必须做的事情。这些地方让我们渐入佳境，懂得要‘善待自己’，因而不妨常去，对自己稍微好一点儿。

“Yes, the haircut might be a bit more expensive, he said, “but you can have a beer if you want,and they are going to take good care of you.

“是的，在这里理发可能有点贵，他说，“但如果你愿意，可以喝杯啤酒，而且，他们让你非常享受。