金融男如何穿出“休闲范”？

There are those among us for whom summer is a sartorial assault course; I'm thinking particularly of members of the opposite sex who work (whisper it) in finance. Just because you are a banker doesn't mean you have to dress like one and, frankly, the way the wind is blowing, you'd be far better served disguising yourself as a geography teacher or even a lawyer.

对于一些人来说，夏天就等于着装障碍赛；我想说的是（小点声）──金融行业内的异性。仅仅因为你是银行家，并不意味着你必须穿得像个银行家，而且坦白说，按当前“风向来看，把自己打扮成地理老师，甚至是律师的模样会明智得多。

In any case, it's a well-known fact that bankers simply can't do 'off duty.' Their idea of Saturday attire is removing their tie and not lacing their brogues as tightly. I'm exaggerating; I know bankers who wear khakis at the weekend―but only with a knife crease and a striped Charvet shirt (sleeves rolled and top button open). Holidays are even worse. Going on vacation with a banker is about as comfortable as going on a silent retreat with a 5-year-old.

银行家根本就不知道何谓“下班装束，这是众所周知的事实。他们对周六穿着的认识就是，把领带摘掉、把布洛克皮鞋鞋带松一松。好吧，我是有点夸张了；我确实是认识一些银行家周末会穿卡其裤，但请注意，这时候它们必定是裤缝笔直、并与夏尔凡(Charvet)的条纹衬衫（袖子卷起，而且最上面的纽扣解开）一道亮相的。假期那就更糟糕了。与一个银行家一起度假，几乎就像与一个5岁孩子去躲清静一样“舒服。

What is it about men who work in the City that makes them unable to compute the concept of relaxed dressing? That's a rhetorical question. We all know that using the words 'relaxed' and 'banker' in the same sentence is a rarity―unless, of course, one is referring to the rule book.

在伦敦金融城上班的男人们，他们怎么就无法理解“休闲范这个概念呢？嘿，这可不是个什么疑问句。谁都知道，“休闲和“银行家这两个词很少同时出现在一个句子里，当然，除非是在指导手册里面。

So, men of the City, here are a few rules that I'm going to suggest you stick to for the purposes of relaxation, at least.

所以，金融城的男人们，如下是我将建议你们遵守的一些着装法则，至少是休闲时的法则：

1. Socks:Shoes that have laces don't require socks. The exceptions being golf and tennis shoes. Brown and gray socks aren't acceptable on holiday. There are no exceptions to this rule.

1. 袜子：系带鞋不需要袜子，高尔夫球和网球鞋例外。假日穿棕色和灰色的袜子是不能接受的，这一点绝无例外。

2. Khakis:Khakis (short and long) are for relaxing in. They should never, ever be worn with a golf-club blazer or a striped shirt á la Gordon Gekko. Best from Gap, Ralph Lauren or J.Crew. Wrinkled but clean is good.

2. 卡其裤：穿卡其裤（无论是长裤还是短裤）为的是舒适放松。它们绝对不应该与高尔夫俱乐部的外套或戈登·盖柯(Gordon Gekko)式的条纹衬衫搭配在一起。牌子最好是Gap、拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)或J.Crew。有点儿皱但很干净就很好。

3. The Tan:If you are going to play golf all vacation, at least have the decency to take an hour or so to tan the rest of your torso. A man with striped arms, a red neck and knees, and a pink face is, in all honesty, a complete turn off. And, by the way, real men wear sun protection: Neutrogena or Aramis.

3. 美黑：如果你打算在高尔夫球场上度过整个假期，那么至少 面点去花上一个小时左右的时间给全身做个美黑吧。否则，一个拥有黑白相间的胳膊、红脖子和红膝盖以及粉扑扑脸蛋的男人，老实说，你彻底完蛋了。顺便说一句，真正的男人是涂抹防晒产品的：露得清(Neutrogena)或雅男士(Aramis)。

4. In Bed:On vacation, one doesn't wear pajamas. Boxer shorts are acceptable. See Thomas Pink or Charles Tyrwhitt for the boxers.

4. 睡觉：度假时，你不需要穿睡衣裤。平角内裤完全可以应付。去Thomas Pink或Charles Tyrwhitt店里看看吧。

5. Swimwear:Vilebrequin, Chucs or Orlebar Brown swimming trunks pool- and oceanside, please. Anything else is just asking for trouble in the form of a wardrobe malfunction.

5. 泳装：游泳池或海边，请穿Vilebrequin、Chucs或Orlebar Brown的泳裤。除此之外的任何衣物，都只会给你带来走光的麻烦。

6. The Polo:Vacations are what those Ralph Lauren polo shirts were designed for. White is dangerous unless you are in incredible shape. Give the emerald-green and lavender-blue a miss, too, if you are over the age of 30.

6. Polo衫：拉夫·劳伦的polo衫生来就是度假用的。白色是个高风险的选择，除非你身材好得不得了。如果你已经过了30岁这个年纪，那么翠绿和薰衣草蓝也不用考虑了。

7. Flip-Flops:Birkenstocks and flip-flops are fine, so long as they aren't the same ones you wore 20 years ago on that wild and crazy trip you took to India. No socks. Ever. Nothing dates a man like old, hippy footwear (and socks).

7. 人字拖：勃肯凉拖(Birkenstocks)和人字拖没什么问题，前提是它们不是曾在你20年前狂野印度之旅中露面的那双。别穿袜子。绝对不要穿。没有人会和喜欢老旧、嬉皮鞋子（以及袜子）的人约会。

8. Jeans:It's OK to wear jeans, just not with, you guessed it, a long-sleeved, cotton striped shirt. Try a loose-fitted gray, navy or blue T-shirt from Uniqlo. For jeans, see classic or vintage Levi's.

8. 牛仔裤：穿牛仔裤当然可以，只是不要搭配──你猜中了！──长袖棉条纹衬衫。可以尝试一件优衣库(Uniqlo)的灰色、海军色或者蓝色的宽松T恤衫。至于牛仔裤，看看李维斯(Levi's)的经典款和做旧款。

9. T-shirts With Logos:No. And that includes your Ironman/triathlon/Boston Marathon shirt―no matter how fast you are/were.

9. 带LOGO的T恤衫：扔一边去。其中包括你的钢铁侠/铁人三项/波士顿马拉松T恤衫──无论你跑得或曾经跑得有多快。

10. Wife-Beater Vests:What do you think?

10. 无袖背心：你觉得呢？

11. Sweaters:Old cricket sweaters, worn golf sweaters, shrunken tennis sweaters―in fact, any old sweaters are a bad idea. Light cashmeres in navy blue, gray or even ivory are acceptable (see Marks & Spencer or Loro Piana). When in the U.K., always pack a Guernsey. You know why.

11. 毛衣：陈年板球毛衣、旧高尔夫球毛衣、缩水的网球毛衣──实际上，任何旧毛衣都是糟糕的主意。不妨穿一件轻薄的海军蓝、灰色甚至象牙色羊绒衫（去玛莎百货(Marks & Spencer)或Loro Piana看看）。如果在英国，永远不要忘了打包一件Guernsey。道理你该明白。

12. Baseball Caps:On the beach or driving with the top down, yes. In bars, restaurants or worn backwards, no.

12. 棒球帽：在海滩或者开敞篷车的时候，可以戴。在酒吧、餐厅，以及反着戴，可别。

13. Dinner Attire:Dressing for dinner doesn't mean a suit; it means a pair of lightweight, cotton-twill trousers, preferably in navy, black or mushroom―best from Loro Piana, Paul Smith or Dunhill―and a lightweight, semiformal shirt―see Paul Smith, Canali or Etro. On your feet? See next item.

13. 晚宴服：参加晚宴并不等于要你穿西装，你需要一条轻质斜纹棉长裤──如果是海军蓝、黑色或者蘑菇色就完美了，品牌最好是Loro Piana、Paul Smith或登喜路(Dunhill)，以及一件轻质半正式衬衫──例如Paul Smith、康纳利(Canali)或艾特罗(Etro)等牌子。穿什么鞋子？请参照下一条。

14. Boat Shoes:Swims rubber-and-mesh boat shoes, Quoddy leather boat shoes or Car Shoe classic driving shoe.

14. 船鞋：Swims的橡胶网眼船鞋，Quoddy的皮质船鞋或者Car Shoe的经典驾车鞋。

15. Sunglasses:When in doubt, Ray-Ban 'Aviators' or Persol '649 S.' No gimmicky sunglasses, please. White or red rims aren't cool, they are just plain silly. At your age, you should know better.

15. 墨镜：在拿不准主意的时候，请选择雷朋(Ray-Ban)的飞行员(Aviators)系列或Persol的649 S系列。千万别戴花里胡哨的墨镜。白色或红色边框非但不酷，反而只会显得很傻。你都这把年纪了，心里应该有谱。

16. Watches:If you must, as many bankers do, have a 'holiday watch' to go with your holiday home, then make it a Rolex 'Submariner,' with a navy or green dial.

16. 手表：如果你非要──像许多银行家一样──佩戴一块“假日手表，以便与你的度假屋相衬，那么就让一块海军蓝色或绿色表盘的劳力士(Rolex)的潜航者(Submariner)来担此大任吧。

17. Gadgets:A Kindle. Well, OK, but a book is still cooler. Phones are banned―or at least banned from sight (that's what the restroom, the cabin or the cabana is for).

17. 配件：一部Kindle。呃，好吧，但是拿本书还是会更酷一点。杜绝手机，或者说至少杜绝在视线范围之内出现（盥洗室、小木屋才是手机的归属）。

18. Cologne:Try Penhaligon's 'Blenheim Bouquet,' Chanel's 'Monsieur' or Creed's 'Original Vetiver.'

18. 古龙水：不妨试试潘海利根(Penhaligon)的Blenheim Bouquet、香奈儿(Chanel)的绅士男性(Monsieur)或信仰(Creed)的香根草(Original Vetiver)。

19. Shaving:Yes, please, unless you are one of the lucky few who look better and sexier with facial hair.

19. 刮胡子：对，务必要，除非你是为数不多的留胡子更帅、更性感的幸运儿之一。

20. Shorts:This is the kicker, because there are really only two types of city-prowling shorts wearers―those who insist on wearing them until there is practically snow on the ground, and those who cannot, under almost any circumstances, bring themselves to wear them at all. Shorts for men carry the same edict as that applied to women and white pants―not before May and certainly not after September. Wearing long trousers on the beach will only serve to make you look like your grandfather. Even if he was the chairman of the bank, this isn't a look that is going to endear you to either sex. I'm just saying.

20. 短裤：这是关键细节，因为实际上都市街头穿短裤的只分两类──一类是除非地面开始积雪才肯脱，一类是在几乎任何情况下都不肯穿。男人穿短裤的法则和女人以及穿白色裤子一样──既不要在5月份之前也绝对不要在9月份之后穿。在海滩穿长裤只会让你看上去像你祖父。哪怕他是银行董事长，这身打扮也绝不能让你获得异性抑或是同性的青眼。此乃我一家之言。