新款羽绒服：体积缩小，品质升级

In my teens, circa 1980, I often felt like Jonathan Livingston Seagull, a nonconformist loner in a Navy-issue pea coat amid a sea of showboating ducks and geese. Nearly every guy in my Main Line Philadelphia high school was proudly zipped and snapped into an Eddie Bauer, North Face, Patagonia or department-store-brand down jacket or two-toned down vest -- often with the built-in status symbol of a weathered ski lift ticket (or five) flapping about on its jumbo zipper pull.

在我十几岁的时候，大约在1980年左右，我经常感觉自己就像海鸥乔纳森（Jonathan Livingston Seagull），身着海军制式扣领短上衣，在一大群哗众取宠的鸭子和鹅（穿着羽绒服的人）中间特立独行。我就读的Main Line Philadelphia中学几乎人人都得意地穿着拉链或按扣式的艾迪鲍尔（Eddie Bauer）、乐斯菲斯（North Face）、巴塔哥尼亚（Patagonia）或者百货店自有品牌的羽绒夹克或双色调羽绒背心──作为身份象征的一张（或者五张）褪色滑雪缆车票在大大的拉链拉头上忽闪忽闪的。

My high school memory is just one in a lengthy birds-of-a-feather chain. The puffer jacket -- a nylon-cotton shell stuffed with fowl feathers invented by Eddie Bauer in 1936 -- has long held a place as a men's sportswear status symbol. It is a somewhat impressive feat, considering the garment's origins as rugged cold-weather vestment for Everest expeditions, hunting adventures and simply keeping warm and dry in frigid climes.

我中学的那段记忆只是一长串有关羽绒服记忆链中的一环。羽绒夹克──艾迪鲍尔时装公司1936年首创的一种用尼龙棉做面料，用家禽羽毛做填料的服装──早就作为男式运动装而拥有了自己的地位。考虑到这种服装最初只是被珠穆朗玛峰登山队、狩猎队当作结实的御寒服，在严寒的气候条件下保持温暖干燥，这是一个多少有点了不起的成绩。

The generation after mine took its cues from hip-hop artists, who co-opted the preppy look, making the puffer a logo-happy essential of the urban tundra. In fact, the down jacket (from the Alpine chic Moncler to the ski-bummy Ralph Lauren RLX) continues to find its way into rap lyrics by millennial performers such as Childish Gambino and Drake. Last year, Drake even collaborated with Canada Goose to make a white duck down puffer-parka hybrid called the OVO Chilliwack, tricked out with a buffalo leather exterior, fox-fur hood and 24k plated zippers.

我之后的一代人从嘻哈艺术家那里获得启发，而嘻哈艺术家引领着校园形象，让这种羽绒服成为城市苔原中必不可少的幸福标识。实际上，进入新千年后，羽绒服（无论是蒙口（Moncler）的Alpine chic羽绒服登山服还是拉夫·劳伦（Ralph Lauren）RLX滑雪服）还被孩子气的甘比诺（Childish Gambino）和德雷克（Drake）这样的表演者写进了说唱乐的歌词中。去年，德雷克甚至还与加拿大大雁（Canada Goose）合作，打造了一款名为OVO Chilliwack的白色鸭绒-皮革混制大衣，采用了水牛皮面料、狐狸毛领风帽和24K镀金拉链。

Now, it is another decade, and the puffer has cycled into another moment. In this incarnation, however, the style staple -- once spoofed by George Costanza on 'Seinfeld' for its comically obstructive bulk -- has been put on an extreme diet by designers from Burberry Prorsum and Brunello Cucinelli to Belstaff and Band of Outsiders. The good news is that nearly all of them have improved it, with a canny balance of its protective function and masculine form. The result is that the pounds-adding puffer is now the go-to jacket for looking lean and mean. The newest ones are lighter and far more flattering.

现在又是一个新的10年，羽绒服的发展进入了新的时期。然而在这一阶段，昔日的主打款式──曾经在《宋飞传》（Seinfeld）里因其臃肿到碍手碍脚的可笑程度而遭到乔治·科斯坦萨（George Costanza）的恶搞──被博柏利·珀松（Burberry Prorsum）、Brunello Cucinelli、贝达弗（Belstaff）和旁观者（Band of Outsiders）的设计师们进行了最大程度的瘦身处理。好消息是，几乎所有的设计师都把它改得更好了，在保暖功能和阳刚造型上巧妙地做到了平衡。结果，过去让人发胖的羽绒服现在变成了追求苗条与匀称身材的首眩最新款羽绒服比以往更轻，而且要漂亮得多了。

'With technological advances, we don't have to make the big puffy jacket that puffy anymore,' said Andrew Rosen, founder of the label Theory, which recently teamed up with Uniqlo to make the t down limited-edition line of ski jackets and vests, available starting Nov. 15. Two-toned and slim-fit, they're minimalist in design, and made with a lightweight down and stretch polyester. 'They're cool-looking, sleek and sophisticated,' Mr. Rosen added. He could also be describing original puffer power Eddie Bauer's new body-hugging MicroTherm Down Shirt with its tightly channeled quilting.

希尔瑞（Theory）品牌的创始人安德鲁·罗森（Andrew Rosen）说，“随着技术的进步，我们再也不必把羽绒服做得那样臃肿了。希尔瑞最近与优衣库（Uniqlo）合作生产限量版的羽绒滑雪衫和背心，11月15日开始销售。这批羽绒服采用双色调、瘦身版型，在设计上属于极简抽象派风格，材料选用轻质鸭绒和可伸缩尼龙。罗森补充道，“它们样式很酷，时尚而精致。他的这个描述也适用于羽绒服缔造者艾迪鲍尔的贴身款羽绒新品：密集绗缝的MicroTherm Down Shirt。

Some of the newcomers retrofitting the puffy jacket seem to be using the subtle ingenuity of Barbour-style hunting jackets (all those secret pockets with nifty uses) rather than exhibitionistic skiwear as their blueprint. The look is 'dry' (not shiny and 'wet') in natural colors like olives and browns, and, like Theory's new line, in trim silhouettes.

一些对羽绒服进行改款的新厂家似乎将设计精巧的巴伯式（Barbour-style）狩猎装（其所有隐藏的口袋都有巧妙的用途）而不是表现主义的滑雪服作为自己的蓝本。橄榄色和棕色这样的天然色彩看起来有点“生硬（不亮，也不“柔和），而且衣服的轮廓与希尔瑞的新款一样简洁。

The higher-price versions upgrade the basic mold with luxurious touches like leather trim, or fur-trimmed collars and hoods. Italian label Moncler is currently selling a diamond-quilted field jacket in a mix of nylon and wool (which appears to be inspired by the U.S. Army's original M-1965) for $1,695, and Burberry Prorsum has a quilted blouson with a mink collar for $4,000. Recently relaunched British label Belstaff added a smart leather trim to its nylon Cranfield parka, which also boasts a shearling hood that is aerated on the sides with small grommets so as not to hinder your hearing (priced at $3,850).

价格较高的款式在基本型的基础上增加了豪华的修饰，比如真皮配饰，或者毛皮衣领和风帽。意大利品牌蒙口目前正在销售一款尼龙、羊毛混合面料的菱形绗缝军装风羽绒夹克（似乎是从美国陆军的M-1965得到了启发），售价为1,695美元。博柏利·珀松的一款貂皮领绗缝羽绒服售价为4,000美元。最近重新上市的英国品牌贝弗达在它的尼龙Cranfield风雪大衣上添加了漂亮的真皮配饰，除此以外，这款大衣还有一顶羊毛风帽，风帽两侧开有小孔，使你的听觉不会受阻（售价3,850美元）。

On the relatively more reasonable side, fellow British brand Barbour, which is always fine-tuning its tailored and classic pieces, has introduced in its Heritage Collection a close fitting, hood-optional, duck down Skipsea duffle jacket, around $550, featuring toggle fasteners and 4-inch box-square quilting. It looks appropriate for a cocktail party entrance . . . or a Nor'easter. There is also a quilted nylon vest with an understatedly chic brown leather yoke by Band of Outsiders, around $600, which like most of the new puffwear looks like it would play well with a wool suit.

在相对合理的价位，同样是英国品牌的巴伯一直在对它的定制和经典款式服装进行细微的调整，它的传统系列（Heritage Collection）里如今又多了一款Skipsea贴身鸭绒休闲夹克，风帽可以取下，售价在550美元左右。这款羽绒服最突出的特点是棒形纽扣和四英寸见方的正方形绗缝，看上去很适合穿着出席一场鸡尾酒会……或者去看一场Nor'easter的演出。旁观者也推出了一款售价在600美元左右、带有别致棕色真皮覆肩的绗缝尼龙面料羽绒背心，看上去跟大多数新款羽绒服装一样，很适合与毛料西装搭配。

A puffer-and-suit ensemble might appear to be an unlikely pairing, but with these refined -- and often tailored-looking -- new versions, it's nowhere close to the equivalent of wearing sneakers with your beautiful Brioni or Kiton.

羽绒服和西装也许感觉不太可能配搭在一起，但穿上这些精制而成的──经常看上去十分考究的──新款羽绒服，感觉完全不同于你穿运动鞋与漂亮的布莱奥尼（Brioni）或姬特（Kiton）西服搭配的情形。

Still, it's not everyone's cup of hot cocoa. Theory's Mr. Rosen said he'll stick to wearing his down jacket with casual attire, like a pair of jeans and a button-down. 'We're not replacing the camel's hair topcoat,' he laughed.

当然，不是每个人都喜欢这种配搭。希尔瑞的罗森说他还是喜欢用休闲装与羽绒服搭配，比如牛仔裤和领尖钉有纽扣的衬衣。他笑着说，“这还是没法取代驼绒大衣。

Myself, I'm going back to where it all began. I plan to nab Eddie Bauer's reissue of the original puffer, which, as it happens, wasn't puffy at all. The upgraded 1936 Skyliner goose-down hunting jacket is leather-trimmed, alpine green, designed with simple lines and under $200. Just don't follow my lead. I still want to stand out in the flock.

至于我自己，我是不会回到原点了的。我打算在艾迪鲍尔重新发布羽绒服新品的时候去抢购一件，它新出的羽绒服一点都不臃肿。这款在1936年Skyliner款式基础上改进的鹅绒狩猎装有真皮边饰，颜色为高山绿色，设计的线条简洁，售价不到200美元。大家可不要跟风啊，我现在依然想要在人群中特立独行呢。

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