托洛尼亚别墅 墨索里尼时代的历史之痛

ROME — Deep beneath the historic Villa Torlonia,where Benito Mussolini lived for nearly two decades, a wine cellar repurposed in 1941 as abunker to protect the Fascist leader was recently opened to the public. Even in a city stratifiedwith centuries of history, where archaeologists are digging up the remains of an ancient empire,the damp underground space is a telling sign of how deeply Italy’s relatively recent past canstay buried.

罗马——贝尼托·墨索里尼(Benito Mussolini)在著名的托洛尼亚别墅(Villa Torlonia)住了近20年。1941年，别墅地下深处的一个酒窖被改造成地堡，以保护这位法西斯首脑。前不久，地堡向公众开放。考古学家们仍在这座历史悠久的城市里挖掘古老帝国的遗迹，但是这个潮湿的地下空间显然表明，意大利的近代史仍被深深掩埋。

The opening of the bunker last fall was the latest step in the ongoing restoration of thesprawling villa compound, which the aristocratic Torlonia family rented to Mussolini and hisfamily from 1925 until his arrest in 1943. Inside what is now a popular park, the complex ofnine buildings erected between 1797 and 1920 also provides a unique window on the history oftaste — and the Torlonias’ ability to cozy up to whomever was in power, reaching back evenbefore the family’s bank, which was favored by the Vatican.

从1925年到1943年墨索里尼被捕，身为贵族的托洛尼亚家族把这座别墅租给了墨索里尼一家。如今，这个庞大的别墅在不断修复中。去年秋天，地堡被打开，那是修复工作的最新一步。别墅的庭院如今是一个著名的公园。1797年至1920年建起来的这九座建筑为我们提供了一个独特的窗口，得以一窥托洛尼亚家族的品味以及他们迎合所有当权者的能力，甚至可以追溯到这个家族的银行(它受到梵蒂冈的青睐)创建之前。

After World War II the villa fell into ruin, a result of family inheritance battles but also of Italy’suncertainty about what to do with a site so closely linked to the dictator. In 1977 thecompound, in a residential area just outside Rome’s historic center, was claimed by the city,which opened the grounds to the public the next year and, starting in the 1990s, mustered thefunding and political will to restore the buildings.

“二战之后，这座别墅沦为废墟，一是因为家族遗产之争，二是因为意大利不确定该如何处置这个与独裁者关系密切的处所。别墅位于罗马历史悠久的中心城区旁边的一个住宅区里。1977年，它被市政府收走，次年庭院部分向公众开放。从20世纪90年代起，市政府开始筹集资金，以及激发政治方面的意愿来修复这些建筑。

“It took a long time — people weren’t ready for it, said Alberta Campitelli, an art historian who,as director of Rome’s historic villas and parks, has overseen the restoration. “There had beena cancellation of history, she said as she toured the compound on a sweltering afternoon. “Itwas still too painful.

“这花了很长时间，因为一开始人们还没准备好接受它，艺术史学家阿尔贝塔·坎皮泰利(Alberta Campitelli)说。作为罗马市的别墅和公园遗址主管，她监管修复工作。“人们曾想抹掉那段历史，在一个闷热的下午，她在巡视别墅时说，“当时它仍令人十分痛苦。

Rome boasts some impressive Fascist-era architecture and landmarks. A plaque in the formerJewish Ghetto marks the deportation of around 1,000 Jews to Auschwitz in 1943 by the Nazis,who occupied part of the country, and in recent years commemorative cobblestones have beenplaced by the houses of deported Jews. But generally, Italy has been reluctant to come toterms with and call attention to Fascist sites, including Mussolini’s headquarters in the PalazzoVenezia in downtown Rome. Partly that is a result of fears that neo-Fascists would flock tosuch sites, as happens regularly in Predappio, Mussolini’s birthplace in northern Italy. Even if thebunker exhibition is fairly modest, Villa Torlonia has become a notable exception, especiallythe restoration of the Casino Nobile, the main house where Mussolini lived, which opened as amuseum in 2006 under the left-wing Mayor Walter Veltroni.

罗马有一些令人印象深刻的法西斯时代的建筑和地标。从前的犹太居民区有一块匾牌，上面记录说，1943年，大约1000名犹太人被当时占领意大利部分地区的纳粹党人驱逐到奥斯维辛集中营。近些年，被驱逐的犹太人的房子旁边放上了一些纪念性的鹅卵石。不过，总的来说，意大利不愿面对和关注法西斯遗址，包括罗马市中心威尼斯宫(Palazzo Venezia)的墨索里尼总部。一个原因是人们担心新法西斯分子会蜂拥前往这些地点，就像在意大利北部墨索里尼出生地普雷达皮奥经常发生的情况那样。尽管地堡展览非常低调，但是托洛尼亚别墅则引人注目，非同寻常，特别是墨索里尼住过的主楼尊贵楼(Casino Nobile)的修复。2006年，左翼市长沃尔特·韦尔特罗尼(Walter Veltroni)在任时，主楼作为博物馆对外开放。

“When it comes to actually talking about the history of Rome under Fascism and of Rome underMussolini personally, there is nowhere like the Villa Torlonia, said Anthony Majanlahti, ahistorian and the author of two books on Rome under Fascism and one on the city’s noblefamilies. “It’s the only place where you can find the city trying to come to terms with it, orbravely saying, ‘Yes, we are talking about this.’

“当真正谈论法西斯统治下的罗马以及墨索里尼统治下的罗马时，没有哪个地方能比得上托洛尼亚别墅，史学家安东尼·马雅拉提(Anthony Majanlahti)说。他写了两本关于法西斯统治下的罗马的书和一本关于罗马贵族家庭的书。“只有在这个地方，你能发现这座城市在努力面对这段历史，甚至是大胆承认：‘是的，我们在谈论这段历史。’

The villa’s grounds also contain ancient Jewish catacombs discovered in 1918 and not open tothe public. It was at Villa Torlonia in 1938 that Mussolini announced racial laws stripping Jewsof citizenship and removing them from many professions. The Casino Nobile now features asmall museum dedicated to the Roman School of anti-Fascist artists active between the 1920sand 1940s, including the writer and painter Carlo Levi. Today, plans are in the works to build aHolocaust museum in a lot adjacent to the villa.

托洛尼亚别墅的庭院里还有古代犹太人的地下墓穴，它们是1918年发现的，没有对公众开放。1938年，就是在这里，墨索里尼宣布种族歧视法律，剥夺犹太人的公民身份，禁止他们从事很多职业。如今，尊贵楼变成了一个小博物馆，专门介绍20世纪20年代至40年代的罗马反法西斯艺术家，包括作家兼画家卡洛·莱维(CarloLevi)。现在，别墅旁边的空地上正在筹划修建一个犹太人大屠杀博物馆。

Mussolini’s bunkers, which were never used, can be visited only by appointment in groups offewer than 20 on regular guided visits organized by Sotterranei di Roma, a culturalassociation to which the city outsourced the tours for lack of funding, Ms. Campitelli said.While workers were restoring the bunkers — one had been opened to the public several yearsago — they found three skeletons from the second century. “That’s Rome, from the secondcentury to 1943, Ms. Campitelli said.

坎皮泰利说，墨索里尼的地堡从未用过，现在只能通过预约Sotterranei di Roma文化协会(由于缺乏资金，政府把参观外包给了这个协会)定期组织的少于20人的导游团进行参观。工人们在修复地堡(其中一个几年前已向公众开放)时发现了三具公元2世纪的遗骸。“这就是罗马，从公元2世纪到1943年的历史，你都能看到，坎皮泰利说。

The newly restored bunker features a small exhibition with gas masks, leaflets sent ahead ofrare Allied bombing raids during the war and recordings of the sounds of air raid sirens. Morethan 1,500 visitors have come since it opened last fall, often older Romans who rememberedthe war, said Lorenzo Grassi of Sotterranei di Roma.

新修复的地堡有一个小型展览，展示战争期间使用的防毒面具、盟军少数几次轰炸前散发的传单以及空袭警报的录音。Sotterranei di Roma协会的洛伦佐·格拉西(Lorenzo Grassi)说，自去年秋天开放以来，已有1500多名游客观看了展览，大多是记得那场战争的罗马老年人。

The villa was built between 1797 and the 1860s. The Torlonia family, originally the Tourlonais,were French arrivistes who became wealthy through an exclusive contract to supply uniformsto Italy’s French occupiers during the Napoleonic years and grew richer after 1782 when theyopened a bank that catered to the nobility and eventually the Vatican, which still has ties tothe bank.

这座别墅建于1797年至19世纪60年代之间。托洛尼亚家族本姓托洛纳斯(Tourlonais)，拿破仑一世时期，通过独家为法国占领者提供制服而发家，1782年，这个家族开设了一个为贵族和梵蒂冈服务的银行，从而变得更加富有。梵蒂冈至今仍与该银行有牵连。

Construction of the Casino Nobile started in 1835, and it includes reliefs by the sculptorAntonio Canova and rooms frescoed in various styles, from the Egyptian to the Gothic. Thebedroom used by Mussolini has an ornately carved wooden headboard and a ceiling paintedwith faux drapery.

尊贵楼始建于1835年，墙上的浮雕出自雕塑家安东尼奥·卡诺瓦(Antonio Canova)之手，装饰着壁画的房间风格多样，从埃及风格到哥特风格。墨索里尼卧室的木床头板有着华丽的雕饰，天花板上绘制着帷幕图案。

From 1944 to 1947 the villa was occupied by American soldiers. During the restoration,workers found circles of pockmarks on one frescoed wall; they turned out to have been causedby errant darts from the Americans’ games. The wall paintings were restored, but thepockmarks were retained. “All the history should be documented, Ms. Campitelli said.

1944年至1947年，托洛尼亚别墅被美国士兵占领。修复期间，工人们在一面有壁画的墙上发现了一些圆形小凹坑，原来它们是美国士兵玩飞镖时射偏了造成的。壁画被修复，但凹坑仍在。“所有的历史都应该被记录下来，坎皮泰利说。

By 1840, the Torlonia family was established enough for Alessandro Torlonia to marry TeresaColonna of the aristocratic Roman family. To celebrate, the family started building a cozy 150-seat theater decorated with images of famous couples from mythology. Its décor also featuresfrescoes by Constantino Brumidi, a Greek who was imprisoned after supporting a short-livedRoman republic and later fled to the United States, where he painted frescoes for the Capitolbuilding in Washington. In 2013 the city of Rome finished a restoration of the theater, and itnow presents programming there.

到1840年，托洛尼亚家族的地位已经很高，亚历山德罗·托洛尼亚(Alessandro Torlonia)得以迎娶罗马贵族之家的特雷莎·科隆纳(Teresa Colonna)。为了庆祝这次联姻，这个家族开始修建一个有150个座位的舒适的戏院，墙上装饰着神话传说中著名伉俪的画像以及康斯坦丁诺·布鲁米迪(Constantino Brumidi)创作的壁画。布鲁米迪是希腊人，因支持一个短命的罗马共和国而入狱，后来逃到美国，曾为华盛顿的国会大厦绘制壁画。2013年，罗马市完成对这座戏院的修复，如今这里有剧目演出。

After he gave Mussolini the run of the Casino Nobile, Prince Giovanni Torlonia moved into theCasina delle Civette, a somewhat kitschy folly on the grounds that reopened in 1997 as amuseum of stained glass. Considered eccentric, the prince was known to stay up late andsleep by day, and his bedroom ceiling was decorated with bats sculpted in stucco.

乔瓦尼·托洛尼亚(Giovanni Torlonia)把尊贵楼租给墨索里尼后，自己搬到了Casina delle Civette楼，它有点低俗，1997年作为一个彩色玻璃博物馆重新开放。据说他很古怪，晚上熬夜，白天睡觉，他卧室的天花板上装饰着用灰泥雕刻的蝙蝠。

The gardens are still a popular public park, but the lawn hasn’t been mowed or the plantswatered in months because the company that would do the work is under investigation as partof a corruption scandal in Rome.

如今作为公园开放的别墅花园依然很受欢迎，但是几个月来，这里的草坪没有修剪，花木也没有浇水，因为负责这些工作的公司因涉及罗马的一桩贪污丑闻在接受调查。

Ms. Campitelli, who will retire next year, fretted over one of the dying rose plants outside theCasina delle Civette. “I’m very happy and proud to have brought these things to life, she saidwistfully. “My only interest is that they will be maintained in a dignified way for futuregenerations.

明年，坎皮泰利将要退休，她为Casina delle Civette楼外一株快要枯死的玫瑰花感到担忧。“能让这些东西重获新生，我感到非常高兴和自豪，她不无留恋地说道，“我唯一的兴趣就是好好维护这些东西，把它们留给后代。