今秋时装三大趋势

Gleam me up

闪耀起来

Shine on you crazy designers. From big brand Burberry to newcomer Simone Rocha and everyone in between, gleaming fabrics were a shortcut to attracting attention. Foil, lamé, metallic leather, wet-look plastics, hologram effects (and a holographic catwalk and invitation at Christopher Kane) ... There were numerous finishes, many of them technically innovative. Don’t be scared of this trend, though; not only is it upbeat and optimistic, it can also be wearable. Just play down a silver skirt with a plain jumper, throw a metallic coat over jeans, and don’t forget the sunglasses, as worn by models in metallics at Jonathan Saunders and Burberry. Aim to dazzle your admirers, not yourself.

设计师们都迷上了亮闪闪的东西。无论是巴宝莉（Burberry）这样的大牌，还是西蒙娜·罗莎（Simone Rocha）这样的新锐品牌，所有品牌，都把使用闪亮面料作为吸引人眼球的捷径。金属箔片、金银线织物、金属皮革、亮面塑料、激光全息效果（包括克里斯托弗·凯恩Christopher Kane的一个全息时装秀)……层出不穷，并且其中不乏技术革新的成果。然而，对这种潮流也无需恐慌；除了看起来一副乐观向上的劲头之外，其实它们的可穿着性也不差。用一条银色的裙子搭配一件简洁的套头衫，或者牛仔裤再搭一件金属色外套，还有就是千万别忘了墨镜，就是要像约翰森·桑德斯（Jonathan Saunders）和巴宝莉的模特们在T台上所戴的那种金属感的。一定把你的仰慕者晃得眼花缭乱。

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Sheer bravado

若隐若现

Once the preserve of glamour models, reality TV rejects and attention-seeking stars claiming they didn’t realise their outfits would go see-though under flash photography, sheer fabrics have acquired a new sophistication. That’s because rather than putting it all on show (with a few exceptions) designers are employing strategic opaque panels, or handling sheer organza in unusual ways, such as on an overskirt or extended hem. Ken Downing, vice-president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus, admires the way sheer fabrics are used “as a veil over colourful lace, a hint of transparency without being exposed." This trend comes with a privacy setting.

一旦名模、真人秀演员还有那些求关注的明星宣称他们之前并没有意识到自己的衣服会走光，那就说明透明面料又迎来了自己的春天。在T台上，设计师们不会倾向于完全采用透明面料（少数除外），而更倾向于将之与不透明的面料结合，又或者是采用不寻常的方式呈现，比如用作罩裙或者褶边。美国高端连锁百货公司内曼·马库斯（Neiman Marcus）的副总裁兼时装总监肯恩·唐宁（Ken Downing）就非常欣赏将透明面料“当做彩色蕾丝的面纱，显得若隐若现的方式。对于那些对“隐私还看得很重的人们来说，这一趋势相当流行。

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Two easy pieces

衫裤流行

Are you wondering whether to buy into trouser suits this season? Well the answer is yes because they are here to stay. Don’t call it a response to the recession, or a get ahead at work strategy though, because we’re not talking office-appropriate, city slicker pinstripes. Like autumn/winter’s versions, this latest crop of two pieces come in eye-catching fabrics such as patterned jacquard, or evening satins. Then again, the top and bottom can be mixed and matched, so perhaps they are an economical trend after all.

女士们是否想知道本季是否需要购入衫裤套装？答案自然是肯定的，因为它们已然在时尚界有了一席之地。不要把它看做是经济衰退的象征，也不要认为它就是要在职场发力的信号，因为在这里我们并不是在讨论职业装。正如你在秋冬展示上看到的那样，最新的女装衫裤两件套采用了非常醒目的面料，诸如有着漂亮图案的提花织物，或者是之前多用于晚装的绸缎。此外，上装和下装还可以混搭，因此或许这也是一种更为经济的潮流。