凡客诚品试水海外生产

China’s largest independent online clothing retailer by sales has started shifting production overseas in an effort to cut labour rates and beat the country’s rapidly rising production costs.

中国销售额最大的独立在线服装零售商已开始将生产转移至海外，以求削减劳动力成本，避开中国快速上涨的生产成本。

Vancl is sourcing a small part of its production from Bangladesh on a trial basis and plans to increase the proportion of clothes made outside China.

凡客诚品(Vancl)正在试验将一小部分生产转移至孟加拉国，并计划增加在中国以外生产的服装比重。

Vancl said the main incentive for the move was cheaper labour costs. “One Bangladesh worker’s monthly salary would be Rmb500 to Rmb600 ($80 to $95), while one Chinese worker now costs at least Rmb2,000 per month, it said, noting that even after paying higher transport and other costs it could save 5-10 per cent of total costs by outsourcing.

凡客诚品表示，此举的主要原因在于海外劳动力成本较低。该公司表示：“一个孟加拉国工人的月薪介于500至600元人民币之间，而现在雇用一个中国工人的成本是每月大约2000元人民币。这家零售商指出，即便在计入较高的运输和其它成本后，生产转移到海外仍可使其节省5%至10%的总成本。

Difficulty recruiting workers was another reason for the move, Vancl said, noting that the “new generation of Chinese workers did not like factory jobs. Manufacturers across China in labour-intensive industries say younger migrants – many of whom have grown up in cities – aspire to service or white-collar jobs.

凡客诚品称，在中国招聘困难是此举的另一个原因。该公司指出，“新一代中国工人不喜欢工厂工作。在中国各地，劳动力密集型产业的制造商纷纷表示，较年轻的农民工（其中很多在城市长大）抱有投身服务业或白领工作的志向。

China’s average monthly pay for migrant workers under the age of 35 was Rmb2,513 last year, up almost 30 per cent since 2010, according to the National Population and Family Planning Commission’s report released on Tuesday.

中国国家人口和计划生育委员会(National Population and Family Planning Commission)周二发布的报告显示，去年35岁以下农民工的平均月薪达到2513元人民币，比2010年水平高出近30%。

A Vancl official said the company is contacting manufacturers in Indonesia, Cambodia and other south-east Asian countries as part of the outsourcing effort, although it has not yet decided how significant a proportion of its production it will source overseas.

凡客诚品的一名高管表示，作为外包努力的一部分，该公司正在接洽印尼、柬埔寨以及其它东南亚国家的制造企业，但目前尚未决定将多大比例的生产转移至海外。

“The production cycle can be as long as four to six months [in Bangladesh], a company official said, while domestic suppliers are required to deliver in 30 to 45 days. The online retailer said it also felt “proud of its traditional ‘made in China’ label.

“（孟加拉国的）生产周期可能长达4至6个月，一名公司高管表示，相比之下国内供应商被要求在30至45天内交货。这家在线零售商表示，它“为传统的‘中国制造’标签感到自豪。

“Vancl only sells to the China market, said Shaun Rein of China Market Research in Shanghai. “One of the reasons they win is they can introduce new products, tailored specifically for China, very quickly. Mr Rein added that sourcing from Bangladesh could jeopardise that.

“凡客诚品仅面向中国市场销售，上海中国市场研究集团(China Market Research)的雷小山(Shaun Rein)表示。“他们取得成功的原因之一，就是他们能够很快地针对中国市场推出新产品。雷小山补充说，从孟加拉国采购可能危及这一优势。

Torsten Stocker, head of the Asian consumer goods practice at Monitor Group, said: “This is far from the end of textile manufacturing in China.

咨询公司摩立特集团(Monitor Group)亚洲消费品业务主管唐仕德(Torsten Stocker)表示：“这远远不能代表中国纺织品制造的终结。

“A host of other factors influence sourcing decisions: labour productivity?...?training/skill level, degree of automation, degree of worker loyalty?...?and speed to market.

“有很多其它因素影响着采购决定：劳动生产率、……训练/技能水准、自动化程度、工人忠诚度，……以及推向市场的速度。

However, Shao Ligang, of Beijing-based Jiupai Yixian apparel consultancy, said rising domestic labour costs will see more Chinese brands outsourcing production.

不过，北京九派壹线服装咨询公司的邵立刚表示，国内劳动力成本不断上涨，将推动更多中国品牌外包生产。

Additional reporting by Yan Zhang

Yan Zhang补充报道