时尚圈的博主们

In 2010, Kat Griffin was a full-time Wall Street litigator with a part-time interest in following fashion. However, she was frustrated by the lack of good advice in both online and offline media on what professional women should wear in the workplace.

2010年，卡特·格里芬(Kat Griffin)还是华尔街的一名全职诉讼律师，业余时间喜欢追逐时尚。然而，让她感到失望的是，关于职业女性在工作场合应该穿什么，不管是网络媒体还是其他媒体都缺乏好的建议。

“In the corporate world, looking stylish while adhering to strict dress codes can be an ongoing headache, she says. “I was regularly seeing clever women in offices and courtrooms making avoidable mistakes with their wardrobe choices that risked their credibility with colleagues and clients.

她说：“在公司里，如何穿得既时尚又符合严格的职业着装要求，一直是一个令人头疼的问题。我经常看到，办公室中和法庭上的一些富有才华的女性，在选择衣饰时犯下本来可以避免的错误，结果可能是使自己在同事和客户那里的可信度受损。

So the Georgetown law school graduate launched Corporette, a blog of daily “corporate chic suggestions, plus an online space for professional women to swap shopping tips and career advice. The blog soared in popularity, becoming a moneymaking enterprise in 2010. Now, says Ms Grif-fin, it hosts 137,000* readers a month. Ms Griffin, now a parent, started working on Corporette full-time when she saw the venture’s potential.

于是，这位乔治敦法学院(Georgetown law school)的毕业生创建了“Corporette，这是一个每天为“公司时尚着装提供建议的博客，也为职业女性交流购物经验和职业建议开辟了空间。该博客越来越受到欢迎，甚至在2010年成为一家赚钱的企业。格里芬说，目前它每个月的读者数量为13.7万*。看到了这项事业的前景之后，格里芬开始全职打理Corporette。格里芬现在已经为人母。

“Fashion blogging in 2012 is a comparatively lucrative business – and it gives me greater flexibility when it comes to my working schedule, she says. While she declines to disclose what she makes from Corporette, a litigator at the level she was before switching to the blogosphere could expect an annual salary of about $250,000 plus bonus.

她说：“2012年，时尚博客是一个盈利性相对较高的行业。并且它使我在工作安排上有更高的灵活性。虽然她拒绝透露她从Corporette获得的收入，但在转到博客行业之前，以她做诉讼律师的资历，她的年收入大约可达25万美元，另外还有奖金。

With an estimated 50,000 fashion bloggers setting up daily, Ms Griffin is not alone in seeing long-term viability in a sector whose biggest stars started out as late-night hobbyists from teenage bedrooms.

每天大约有5万个时尚博客诞生，看到这个领域长期潜力的绝不仅仅是格里芬一个人，而这个领域目前最耀眼的明星，最初曾是爱熬夜的青少年博客爱好者。

“Blogging is a seriously successful industry that is now attracting serious and successful people, says Yuli Ziv, chief executive of Style Coalition, which helps bloggers to create revenue channels and turn blogs into businesses. “Bloggers are the next generation of media influencers. They are taking marketing and advertising budgets from leading global brands and many are at the forefront of the social media revolution, with hundreds of thousands of followers.

Style Coalition首席执行官尤利·齐夫(Yuli Ziv)说：“博客现在是一个非常成功的行业，正在吸引态度严谨而成功的投资人士。博主是影响媒体的下一代人。他们正在吸引全球大品牌将营销和广告预算花在他们身上，其中很多人还走在社交媒体变革的前沿，有着成千上万的粉丝。Style Coalition的业务是帮助博主创造收入渠道，将博客变为生意。

Ms Ziv says bloggers’ market power is booming as retailers realise that relationships with online tastemakers can access new, niche consumer markets, while triggering the conversion of editorial content into sales.

齐夫认为，博主的市场影响力与日俱增，原因是零售商意识到，与网络上的风尚引领者建立关系，就能获得进入新的特定消费者细分市场的渠道，在此过程中，在线的编辑内容转化为销售。

There are many ways a blogger can benefit from the process. About 51 per cent of Corporette’s revenue comes from affiliate linking to products and external websites. Another 44 per cent comes from online advertising, with 5 per cent from brand partnerships.

博主可以有许多方式从这一过程中赚钱。Corporette的收入中大约有51%来自为产品和外部网站提供合作链接。还有44%来自网络广告，剩下的5%来自品牌合作。

Many of these collaborations were brokered via Style Coalition, which represents 40 bloggers. In the past three years there has been a huge rise in agents, alliances and partnerships, all des-igned to help blogs grow as start-ups.

这些合作中很多都是由Style Coalition牵线搭桥的，它是40%博主的代理人。过去的三年，代理、联盟、合作出现大幅增长，目的都是帮助博客成长为初创企业。

College Fashion, a style blog created in 2007 by Zephyr Basine, an Amherst business graduate, caters for the tastes and budgets of fashion-conscious students. It has 1.3m readers a month, with 60 per cent of its income coming from banner ads, display ads and sponsored campaigns.

由安默斯特学院(Amherst)商科毕业生泽菲尔·巴辛(Zephyr Basine)创建于2007年的时尚博客College Fashion，面向的是有时尚意识的学生，在满足他们品味的同时照顾他们的预算。它每月有130万读者，60%的收入都来源于条幅广告、显示广告和赞助活动。

When she started the blog, brands did not take it seriously as a business, says Ms Basine. “Today I get hundreds of daily emails from PR and marketing teams asking to collaborate – there’s been a huge change in attitude despite the fact I am still relatively young and this is my first venture. Blogging is far more democratic than other business sectors.

巴辛说，她刚刚创建博客的时候，很多品牌并没有把它当回事。“但现在我每天都会收到来自各公司公关和营销部门的数百封电子邮件，都是要求合作的。人们的态度发生了很大的转变，尽管我相对来说还比较年轻，并且这是我的第一个公司。比起其他商业领域，博客的民主气息浓得多。

A key tactic for Ms Basine is to develop followers on social media networks. While the struggle to translate traffic figures and “likes into profits is well known, many bloggers insist it remains a non-negotiable part of a successful commercial strategy.

巴辛的一个关键策略就是在社交媒体上壮大粉丝队伍。虽然众所周知将浏览量和“喜爱转变为收益很难，但很多博主坚持认为，这依然是一个成功的商业战略中不容争议的部分。

Kelly Framel, founder of The Glamourai, was an eve-ning wear designer for Oscar de la Renta and Naeem Khan before starting her “creative outlet blog in 2010. The impeccably dressed New York-based blogger has 45,000 followers on Instagram, 35,000 on Twitter and 25,000 on Facebook, with hordes of fashion devotees hanging on her every word or snap.

博客The Glamourai 创始人凯莉·弗莱梅尔(Kelly Framel)在2010年开设这个“创意商店博客之前，曾是奥斯卡·德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)和Naeem Khan的晚装设计师。这位衣着无可挑剔的纽约博主在Instagram、Twitter和Facebook上分别有4.5万、3.5万和2.5万粉丝，她的每句话、每张照片都受到诸多时尚爱好者的热切关注。

“The blog is still the beating heart of the Glamourai brand, but social media is the conduit between my site and my readers, says Ms Framel, who attracts new fans with extra content exclusive to the networking sites. “The joy of developing a digital brand [lies in] the web enhancers such as speed, “shareability and linking, that don’t exist in print. It reinforces a sense of community and generates profile and conversation.

弗莱梅尔说：“博客仍然是Glamourai品牌的核心，但社交媒体是我的网站和读者之间的桥梁。通过针对社交网站提供额外内容，弗莱梅尔不断吸引新的粉丝。“开发数字品牌的乐趣来自网络的强化因素，比如速度、‘共享性’、链接等印刷媒体不具备的东西。它强化了一种社交感，有助于树立形象，并带来交流。

Unlike Ms Griffin and Ms Basine, Ms Framel is one of a growing group of influencers who are marketing the brand of the blogger as well as the blog. The bulk of their revenue comes from fronting external collaborations, such as modelling in fashion campaigns, hosting events, video series and designing or styling projects, giving them a star profile in the process.

与格里芬和巴辛不同的是，弗莱梅尔属于这样一个越来越壮大的影响力群体，他们在经营博客的同时还推销博主本身的品牌。他们的大量收入来源于台前的外部合作，比如在时尚活动中当模特、做活动主持人、参与视频系列片、设计各种项目，在这个过程中树立他们的明星形象。

Once shunned by the fashion crowd, these bloggers regular-ly feature on the covers of revered “old media tit-les, are photographed in dazzling outfits and given preferential treatment on the fashion week front row.

曾经被时尚圈拒之门外的这些博主，现在经常出现在备受尊崇的“老牌媒体的封面上，穿着炫目的服装出镜，在时装周上获得前排的特殊待遇。

London-based blogger Bip Ling, who started her quirky interactive scrapbook blog as a teenager, is an example of the “celebutante blogger trend. She refuses to feature ads because “they ruin the visual aesthetic of my page and seem too blatant in terms of flogging product on to my readers, she says. “I see my blog as a career-enabling stepping stone to other things – although it generates a great salary?.?.?.? I model, am a DJ, a former Forever 21 brand ambassador and ‘CK one insider’ for Calvin Klein Color Cosmetics. She also has a children’s book planned and is in talks for several TV presenting opportunities.

伦敦博主比普·林(Bip Ling)十几岁时就开设了一个搞怪的互动剪贴簿博客，她是“公主帮博主(celebutante blogger)潮流的一个代表。她拒绝在博客上放广告，因为“它们破坏了我的网页的视觉美感，在向我的读者兜售产品上太过露骨，她说，“我认为我的博客是通往其他职业领域的跳板，尽管它确实带来了很多收入……我是模特、DJ、Forever 21品牌大使、CK彩妆代言人。同时，她还计划写一本儿童方面的书，并且正在商谈几个主持电视节目的机会。

While the drive of many bloggers is generating a buzz, however, some experts advise caution. “Very few bloggers come from business backgrounds, so it’s critical that they get a full understanding of a website’s corporate structure and the surrounding legal framework, says Ms Ziv.

很多博客的目的都是赚取眼球，但一些专家建议要谨慎行事。齐夫说：“很少有博主有商业背景，因此透彻理解网站的公司结构及相关法律框架，对他们而言非常关键。

Sasha Wilk-ins, former fashion editor turned veteran A-List blogger Liberty London Girl, points out that bloggers are legally obliged to disclose financial relationships and endorsements. “As someone who straddles the old and new worlds of fashion, I am incandescent to see the blogging community?.?.?.?besmirched by people who, whether they understand the consequences of their actions or not, behave in an unethical manner.

萨莎·威尔金斯(Sasha Wilkins)原先是时尚编辑，后来成为一流博客Liberty London Girl的老牌博主，她认为博主有公开财务关系和赞助情况的法律义务。“作为跨越新旧时尚领域的人，看到博客圈被一些行为不道德的人——不论他们是否明白自己行为的后果——所玷污，我感到很愤怒。

LLG launched in 2006. The trailblazing enterprise began as a means of telling friends in the UK about life in New York, generating no revenue for two years. “The sums I can make today would have been eye-watering to me then, although I continue to have no problem with turning down paying jobs if they aren’t right, says Ms Wilkins, who, as the face of Hunter wellington boots, was the first British blogger to book a UK advertising campaign.

Liberty London Girl创建于2006年。这个具有开拓性的公司起初是向英国人讲述纽约的生活方式，前两年它并没有创收。“我如今的收入放在那时会让我激动得想哭，但即使是现在，如果一份赚钱的工作不适合我的话，我还是会毫不犹豫地拒绝。威尔金斯说。作为Hunter威灵顿靴的代言人，威尔金斯是英国广告代言的博主第一人。

Broadcast work, commissioned journalism and offline collaborations make up 70 per cent of her revenue. However, providing consulting to big-name brands comprises an increasing proportion, which Ms Wilkins says can only be a good thing. “Lots of luxury brands still blindly throw money at bloggers, but?.?.?.?they are becoming more educated, she says.

宣传工作、受托撰稿、线下合作占她收入的70%。然而，为大品牌提供咨询所占的比例越来越大，威尔金斯认为这绝对是件好事。她说：“很多奢侈品牌仍然在盲目地向博客砸钱，但他们也越来越明白各中门道。

“Professionalism will become the hallmark of a successful blogging model, leading to a healthy, transparent business environment, which in the long term can only benefit the blogosphere.

“专业性将成为成功博客模式的标志，这将带来一种健康、透明的商业环境，长期来看一定会让博客圈受益。

*All the blogs’ figures are self-reported

*文中所有博客数据都是内部数据。