50年拍5万姑娘，他才是真正的街拍鼻祖

Bill Cunningham, the New York fashion photographer known for his shots of emerging trends on the streets of New York City, died on Saturday at age of 87 after being hospitalized for a stroke, the New York Times reported.

比尔·坎宁汉是一位大名鼎鼎的纽约时尚摄影师，非常善于用镜头捕捉纽约大街上的时尚潮流。据《纽约时报》报道，87岁的坎宁汉于上周六去世了。此前，他已因中风住进医院。

He was known for wearing his trademark blue jacket and riding around on his bicycle with a small camera bag strapped to his waist. Cunningham worked for the New York Times for nearly 40 years, operating 'as a dedicated chronicler of fashion and as an unlikely cultural anthropologist,' the newspaper said.

坎宁汉因为经常身穿标志性蓝夹克、腰系小摄像机包、蹬着自行车穿行在大街小巷而闻名，他已为《纽约时报》工作近40年，被报纸评为“甘于奉献的时尚记录者和不可思议的文化人类学家”。

After serving in the Army, Cunningham wrote fashion pieces for the Chicago Tribune and started taking photographs of people on the streets. A chance photograph of Greta Garbo got the attention of the New York Times and in 1978 he began publishing a regular series of photographs in the paper - eventually becoming one of the most influential figures in the fashion world.

坎宁汉从军队退役后，成为了《芝加哥论坛报》的时尚写手，并开始进行街拍。因为一次偶然的机会，他拍摄的葛丽泰·嘉宝引起了《纽约时报》的注意。自1978年开始，坎宁汉定期在报纸上发表系列照片，最终成为了时尚界最具影响力的人物之一。

'I've said many times that we all get dressed for Bill,' Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour said in a 2010 documentary dedicated to Cunningham, called Cunningham New York.

《Vogue》杂志总编安娜·温图尔在2010年献给坎宁汉的纪录片《我们都为比尔着盛装(Cunningham New York)》中说：“我说过很多次，我们都在为比尔着盛装。”

Cunningham operated with the conviction that fashion shows didn't happen on runways but on the street - and his essays in the New York Times documented decades of evolving trends on the New York pavements. His keen eyes spotted popular items of clothing ranging from the elegant to thetacky, and his lens capture 'fanny packs Birkin bags, gingham shirts and fluorescent biker shorts', the New York Times said in an obituary of Cunningham Saturday. 'I'm not interested in celebrities with their free dresses. I'm interested in clothes,' Cunningham said about his own work in the 2010 documentary.

坎宁汉坚信时尚不在T台上，而在大街上，他发表于《纽约时报》的文章记录了纽约街道上数十年的时尚潮流演变历程。他用敏锐的目光锁定各类时尚单品，从优雅系到潮流派;《纽约时报》在周日为坎宁汉发的讣告中说，他的镜头捕捉到了“范妮包、柏金包、格子衫和荧光骑行短裤”。坎宁汉在2010年的纪录片中谈到自己的工作时曾说：“我对穿着随意的名人没有兴趣，我的兴趣点在服饰上。”

Cunningham may have been known to every important figure of his industry, but his own life was a model of asceticism, the New York Times reported. He had breakfast every day at the same deli - Stage Star Deli on West 55th Street, and usually purchased a sausage and egg sandwich and a cup of coffee for less than $3. Cunningham did not have a television, did not go to the movie theater, and until 2010 lived in the same studio where he kept his negatives. His single bed was pictured in the 2010 documentary among rows and rows of file cabinets. 'If you don't take money, it can't tell you what to do,' Cunningham, who also appeared at a launderette, said.

据《纽约时报》报道，虽然时尚界的每位重要人物都认识坎宁汉，但他却过着一种典型的禁欲主义生活。他每天早晨都在同一家食品店用餐，就是55街上的星光舞台食品店，通常只点一个鸡蛋香肠三明治和一杯咖啡，消费不超过3美元。坎宁汉没有电视机，也不去影院和剧院，2010年之前一直住在他存放胶片的工作室里。在2010年的纪录片中可以看到，他的单人床就放在成排的文件柜中间。纪录片中还拍摄到坎宁汉出现在自动洗衣房里，他在那里说：“如果你不要钱，钱就不能使唤你了。”

The fashion world paid tribute to Cunningham's talent - and his unusual character - after the news of his death.

坎宁汉去世的消息发出后，整个时尚界都对他的才华以及不同寻常的性格表达了敬意。