再见苏州

第一次相识苏州，带着强烈的震撼和深深的遗憾离开。

I met Suzhou for the first time and left with strong shock and deep regret.

2004年11月，一次偶然的机缘，我有幸在苏州呆了整整4天。4天时间，呆在一个城市，按理，可以将这个城市的山山水水、人文景致，访个遍走个尽。可惜4天时间差不多就在两个地方呆着，一是宾馆，二是学校。我是带着“使命”去的。学校老师到苏州赛课，我陪同服务。当天下午一到，就全身心的投入到赛课的准备之中。第二天观摩其他老师赛课，收集赛课信息。第三天下午赛课，与其他选手交流。第四天颁奖、闭幕结束已经接近中午12点。从学校到苏州之前就已经将往返机票定好，留给我们的时间就只有一个下午。

In November 2004, I had the chance to stay in Suzhou for 4 days. In 4 days, staying in a city, you can visit the mountains, rivers and cultural landscapes of the city. Unfortunately, I spent almost four days in two places: Hotel and school. I went with a mission. The school teacher went to Suzhou for class, I accompanied the service. As soon as I arrived that afternoon, I devoted myself to the preparation of the competition. The next day, I watched other teachers' competitions and collected information about them. The third day, in the afternoon, we will have a competition class and communicate with other players. On the fourth day, the award ceremony and the closing ceremony were close to 12 noon. The round-trip air tickets have been booked before the school arrived in Suzhou. The time left for us is only one afternoon.

想去的地方很多。周庄、寒山寺、拙政园都是不错的选择。周庄太远，半天时间无异是对周庄的亵渎；体验张继“夜半钟声听客船”的美妙意境须在晚上，时间不允；看看苏州园林倒是最好的选择。

There are many places to go. Zhouzhuang, Hanshan Temple and Humble Administrator's garden are all good choices. Zhouzhuang is too far away. Half a day is a blasphemy to Zhouzhuang. To experience Zhang Ji's wonderful mood of "listening to the passenger boat at midnight", it must be in the evening. Time is not allowed. It's the best choice to look at Suzhou garden.

对苏州的向往，最早源于叶圣陶的《苏州园林》。“苏州园林甲天下”，到了苏州不看园林，等于没到苏州。吃罢午饭，我们就直奔拙政园，叶圣陶的《苏州园林》主要就是以拙政园为模本写成的，看苏州园林，拙政园是首选。

The yearning for Suzhou originated from Ye Shengtao's Suzhou garden. "Suzhou garden is the best in the world". If you don't see the garden in Suzhou, you will not see Suzhou. After lunch, we went straight to the Humble Administrator's garden. Ye Shengtao's Suzhou garden is mainly based on the Humble Administrator's garden. Looking at Suzhou garden, Humble Administrator's garden is the first choice.

拙政园，一个私家园林，实在太大了，太奢华了，太个性了。最妙，给我印象最深的，是整个园林建筑构思的精妙。在东园和西园之间，时时会见到中间镶嵌有雕花镂窗的长廊或回廊，将两园隔而未隔，界而未界。走在两园里，若想将整个园子纳入视野之中一网打尽而不得，但一个个镂窗却又有意无意地将园子里的美妙景致时不时送入你的眼中，真有点欲看不得，不看不能的诱人韵味。在园子的中轴线上，园外几里地建有一座塔，在园中游着游着，不经意抬头一看，哇！园中什么时候突然冒出一座塔来，令人惊喜不已。这样的借景手法在拙政园中时时可以鉴赏到。为了让园子一年四季季季有生气，天天有花香，西园在东南西北四个方向分别修建了春夏秋冬四个小园，春看牡丹，夏赏绿荷，秋采金菊，冬闻梅香，是别有一番风味。“见山楼”更妙，它建造在假山旁，水中央，虽说是楼，却偏偏楼上楼下不相通。从下面平地进去，像上了船；从上面山路进去，像登了山。推开窗户，四面眺望，远山近水尽在眼底，心胸格外开阔。

Humble Administrator's garden, a private garden, is too big, too luxurious, too personal. What impresses me most is the exquisite conception of the whole garden architecture. Between the East Garden and the west garden, there is always a corridor or corridor inlaid with carved windows in the middle, which separates the two gardens without dividing them, without dividing them. Walking in the two gardens, if you want to bring the whole garden into the field of vision, but you can't get rid of it, but you can't get the beautiful scenery in the garden into your eyes from time to time, intentionally or unintentionally. It's really a bit tempting. On the central axis of the garden, there is a tower built several miles outside the garden, swimming in the garden, looking up casually, wow! When did a tower suddenly appear in the garden? It's amazing. It can be appreciated in Humble Administrator's garden. In order to make the garden full of vitality and fragrance of flowers every day, the west garden has built four small gardens in four directions in the southeast, the northwest, the summer, the autumn and the winter, to see the peony in spring, the green lotus in summer, the golden chrysanthemum in autumn, and the plum fragrance in winter. It has a unique flavor. "See the mountain building" is better. It is built beside the rockery and in the middle of the water. Although it is a building, it is not connected between the upper and lower floors. Going in from the ground below is like going on a boat; going in from the mountain road above is like going up a mountain. Push open the window and look around. You can see all the mountains and waters, and your mind is very open.

两个小时倍觉短暂，带着一种深深的震撼离开拙政园，带着与苏州这座旅游城市真正只有两个小时的亲密接触的遗憾结束了第一次苏州之行。

Two hours is short, leaving the Humble Administrator's garden with a deep shock, and ending the first trip to Suzhou with only two hours of real close contact with Suzhou as a tourist city.

再见苏州，是在2008年的7月。

Goodbye to Suzhou, in July 2008.

跟随“江南夏令营”“跟着课本游江南”，7月13日上午乘车感受了杭州湾跨海大桥的奇伟壮观，傍晚抵达苏州。14日，计划游览“枫桥夜泊景区”和“狮子林”，正和我意。

Following the "Jiangnan summer camp" and "following the textbook to visit Jiangnan", I took a bus on the morning of July 13 to experience the magnificent Hangzhou Bay sea crossing bridge and arrived in Suzhou in the evening. On the 14th, I planned to visit "Fengqiao night park scenic spot" and "Lion Forest", which is just in my mind.

怀揣“月落乌啼霜满天，江枫渔火对愁眠”的亲切和诗意，14日上午9点，我们来到了枫桥景区。

We came to Fengqiao scenic spot at 9 a.m. on the 14th with the cordial and poetic feeling of "the moon is falling, the crow is crowing, the frost is all over the sky, and the fishing fire of Jiangfeng is worrying about sleeping".

对我而言，枫桥景区的一切喧嚣、铺张和虚张声势，枫桥、江村桥、寒山寺的钟声，都成了张继的背景。我只想亲临当年张继“月落乌啼”时失眠的那条河，那只船，那束渔火，去体味他的落魄、失意、孤独、无奈，去感觉他是如何吟出脍炙人口的《枫桥夜泊》的。

For me, all the noise, extravagance and bravado of Fengqiao scenic area, the bells of Fengqiao, Jiangcun bridge and Hanshan Temple have become the background of Zhangji. I just want to visit Zhang Ji's sleepless River, boat and fishing fire, to experience his loss, frustration, loneliness and helplessness, to feel how he sang the famous "Night Mooring at Fengqiao".

脚下少有流连，跨过短短的听钟桥，一个平台旁看似码头却不是码头的水边，随意躺着一叶扁舟，那水似清似浊，不甚宽阔。如果不是平台上斜躺着的那幅雕塑明明白白用文字标着“张继”二字，我根本不敢相信这个地方就是《枫桥夜泊》的出生之地；我完全不能接受，这就是我心中翘望的枫桥？

At the foot of the bridge, there is little flow. Across the short listening bell bridge, there is a boat lying on the side of a platform that looks like a wharf but not the water side of the wharf. The water seems clear, turbid and not very broad. If it wasn't for the sculpture lying on the platform that clearly marked "Zhang Ji" in words, I couldn't believe that this place was the birthplace of "Night Mooring of maple bridge". I couldn't accept it at all. This is the maple bridge in my heart?

在我所理解的诗境里，寒山寺是建在一座很高很高的山上的一座很大很大的寺庙，而张继停泊的那个港湾，与寒山寺的大气相匹配，水面开阔，波光粼粼，像岳阳楼前浩浩汤汤，横无际涯的洞庭湖那样浩渺无边。每到半夜时分，寒山寺里特有的悠长钟声，穿过宽阔的水面，穿破袅绕的水汽，袅袅娜娜的飘荡而来。也许是看惯了重庆江水的雄阔，朝天门码头的浩渺，如此低矮的寒山寺，如此狭窄的运河水面，犹如酒杯大的那么一个港湾，完全颠覆了我心中那幅“枫桥夜泊”的意境。心中油然而生丝丝的惆怅。

In my understanding of poetry, Hanshan Temple is a very large temple built on a very high mountain, and the harbor where Zhang Ji is parked matches the atmosphere of Hanshan Temple. The water surface is open and sparkling, just like the vast soup in front of Yueyang Tower and the endless Dongting Lake. Every midnight, the unique long bell sound in Hanshan Temple comes through the broad water surface, breaking through the water vapor and waving Nana. Maybe I'm used to seeing the vast river, the vast Chaotianmen wharf, the low Hanshan Temple and the narrow canal, just like a harbor with a large glass of wine, which completely subverts the artistic conception of "Night Mooring at Fengqiao" in my mind. There is a sense of melancholy in my heart.

细细想来，江南本是小家碧玉。生活在巴渝大地的人，思维被定势在了巴渝的风光里了，怎能赋予“小桥流水”的江南以巴渝的蓬勃气象。怪不得从鲁迅故居走出时，一个个学生撅起小嘴，把对“百草园”的不满意一一写在脸上——鲁迅太吹牛了，那么小一个菜园子，吹得那么好，太捉弄人了吧。可是，就是这“小气”的百草园却走出了鲁迅。

If you think about it, Jiangnan is originally a small jade. People living in the land of Bayu, their thinking is set in the scenery of Bayu, how to give the "small bridge and flowing water" to the south of the Yangtze River with the vigorous atmosphere of Bayu. It's no wonder that when walking out of Lu Xun's former residence, one student pouted his lips and wrote down his dissatisfaction with the "herbal garden" - Lu Xun boasted too much, so a small vegetable garden, played so well, played tricks on others too much. However, it is this "stingy" herbal garden that walked out of Lu Xun.