美国皮肤专家告诉你：什么样的化妆品痘痘族千万不能用

Acne is the WORST. And the more you have, the more inclined you feel to layer on heavy foundation to cover it up. But sometimes your makeup can lead to new breakouts, and you become trapped in a vicious cycle of wanting to hide your blemishes while the product you're using creates more of them.

脸上长痘太可怕了。痘越多，你越想用厚厚的粉底遮住它。但化妆品有时会导致新一轮痘痘大爆发，于是你便陷入了“用化妆品遮痘——化妆品爆痘”的恶性循环中。

Before you reach for the concealer, it's worth taking a moment to understand what's going on with your skin: "The development of acne requires the presence of several contributory factors including oil production, certain bacteria, and occlusion of pores," says Arielle Nagler, MD, a dermatologist at NYU Langone Medical Center. Any of these factors can make you more likely to break out when you add makeup to the mix. But, she explains, not all makeup is created equal. The trick is to choose a foundation that's right for your skin.

用遮瑕膏遮痘痘之前，你有必要花时间了解一下自己的脸部状况。“长痘是多种因素导致的，包括脸部出油、细菌滋生和毛孔堵塞，”纽约大学朗格尼医学中心皮肤科医生、医学博士阿丽尔·纳格勒说。在脸上涂抹化妆品时，以上任何一种因素都会增加爆痘的可能性。不过纳格勒还解释说，化妆品各不相同，选择适合自己肤质的粉底，可以避免痘痘的滋生。

Avoid comedogenic products

含以下成分的产品一定不能用

"The main mechanism by which cosmetic ingredients cause acne is through occlusion of pores," says Dr. Nagler, and the following are all known pore-cloggers.

纳格勒医生表示，“化妆品引起痘痘的主要原因是堵塞毛孔。”以下化妆品成分容易堵塞毛孔。

Alcohols:

酒精：

Cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and other types can trigger the development of white heads and blackheads, the first lesions in acne. Even worse, alcohols are irritants and can dry out the skin. That irritation can trigger flare-ups, which make it more difficult to use acne-fighting medications, since those too can be drying, explains Melisa Piliang, MD, a dermatologist at the Cleveland Clinic.

棕榈醇、油醇及其他醇类会滋生暗疮和黑头，它们是长出痘痘的第一步。克利夫兰医学中心皮肤科医生、医学博士梅丽萨·皮里昂指出：更糟的是，酒精还刺激皮肤，使皮肤干燥，进而爆痘，但抗痘药物这时候却不建议使用了，因为这种药物会使皮肤进一步变干。

Lanolin:

羊毛脂：

Used as an emollient to soften the skin, lanolin and its derivatives (like acetylated lanolin) can also lead to breakouts.

作为软化皮肤的润肤剂，羊毛脂和含有羊毛脂成分的物质（如乙酰化羊毛脂）也会爆痘。

Silicones:

聚硅酮：

Cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and other forms of silicone such as dimethicone, phenyl, and trimethicone are a no-no for acne-prone skin, according to Debra Jaliman, MD, an assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City and author of Skin Rules. Another substance to avoid: petrolatum, which is sometimes found in moisturizing foundations, she says.

黛博拉·加里曼是纽约西奈山医学院皮肤病科助理教授、医学博士，著有《护肤法则》一书。她表示，易痘肤质绝对不能使用含有聚硅氧化合物、环己硅氧烷、二甲聚硅氧烷、苯基和三甲基聚硅氧烷等含有聚硅酮成分的化妆品。有些保湿粉底中的矿脂也要避免使用。

Oils:

油类：

Some foundations include oil, such as mineral oil, coconut oil, and cocoa butter. But oils are not recommended for anyone with acne, cautions Dr. Piliang. Adding extra oil to already oily skin can clog your pores even more.

有些粉底中含有矿物油、椰子油、可可油等油类。皮里昂医生提醒痘痘肤质的人不要使用含油类的化妆品。在油性肌肤上增加油类成分会使毛孔堵塞更严重。

Fatty acids: The ingredient ehylhexyl palmitate, a derivative of palm oil, may also be responsible for makeup-induced acne woes. "Keep in mind that 'natural ingredients' can be comedogenic as well," says Dr. Piliang.

脂肪酸：乙基己酯棕榈酸是棕榈油的一种，含有此成分的化妆品也会闷出大量痘痘。皮里昂医生说：“就算是‘纯天然成分’，也可能导致痘痘产生，大家一定要记住这一点。”

Be wary of the claims on labels

哪种抗痘化妆品不能用

A few companies have begun labeling their foundation and concealer as "acne-fighting." But that may not mean what you think: Acne-fighting typically indicates that a product contains over-the-counter medication like salicylic acid. While salicylic acid does have properties that can help unclog pores, it also has the potential to be drying, notes Dr. Piliang.

有些化妆品公司开始在粉底和遮瑕产品上标注“抗痘功效”，但这种“抗痘功效”跟你想的可能不太一样——它们通常是含有水杨酸等非处方药成分的产品。皮里昂医生表示，尽管水杨酸的确能够清除毛孔堵塞，但它也可能会导致皮肤干燥。

Look for these four ingredients

使用含下面四种成分的化妆品

There are foundations out there that can actually help your skin, says Dr. Jaliman. When you're shopping, she recommends scanning labels for ingredients such as aloe and antimicrobial peptide 10. Retinols and vitamin A derivatives are plusses as well, says Dr. Nagler: Both are thought to "improve the rate of turn over of your skin to help prevent the development of those pesky zits," she explains. "In addition, retinols stimulate collagen helping to counter the effects of aging and sun.

加里曼医生表示，有些粉底能够帮助改善肤质。选购化妆品时，她推荐购买含有芦荟和“抗菌蛋白10”的化妆品。纳格勒医生认为视黄醇和维生素A也可以“改变肤质，避免粉刺滋生”。“另外，视黄醇能够促进胶原蛋白合成，抗皮肤老化，防紫外线照射。”