辣极思蜀:花椒的极致诱惑

I HAVE A CONFESSION to make: For nearly a decade, I kept contraband in my freezer. It was a stash of Sichuan peppercorn, the bright and earthy Asian spice that tingles and numbs the tongue. Harvested from prickly ash shrubs and trees in temperate parts of Asia, Sichuan peppercorns had been banned from the U.S. in 1968 out of fear they might spread citrus canker.

我有件事必须坦白：近10年来，我一直在冰箱里藏着违禁品。它就是花椒，一种明亮、朴实的亚洲香料，入口辛麻。花椒生长于亚洲温带地区，是灌木或乔木花椒树的果实。由于担心这种植物会导致柑橘溃疡病蔓延，美国在1968年曾颁布过花椒的进口禁令。

The spice is often combined with chilies for a sensation the Chinese call ma la─literally 'numbing-hot.' It was a food buzz that intrigued me because it was like no other. (Despite the name, the reddish-brown pods are not related to black pepper.) The zingy husks are used in China, where the spice is called hua jiao ('flower pepper'), while Japanese cuisine favors the pod's milder berries, known as sansho. In any form, that lemony tang is unmistakable.

花椒常与辣椒一起使用，烹制口味麻辣的菜肴。这种调料在我看来非常独特，引发过我的无限好奇。（虽然中文名字中都有一个“椒”，但这种红褐色的芸香科植物与黑胡椒并无关系。）不论是中国菜中使用的花椒，还是日本料理中使用的柔和些的山椒，其浓烈辛辣的香味都是明白无误的。

I got my hands on some in 1996, and since I didn't know when I'd get more, I used the peppercorns judiciously─roasting them with salt, say, to make a zesty dip for fried chicken. My favorite way to deploy them was to pound and scatter them into mapo tofu, a Sichuan classic of velvety tofu and ground meat swimming in a silky sauce. When the U.S. lifted the ban on Sichuan peppercorns in 2005, I rejoiced.

我在1996年弄到些花椒，当时因为不知道什么时候才能再弄到一些，所以我明智地把它们加盐烘焙，做成了花椒粉，在吃炸鸡时当蘸料享用。当然，我最喜欢的做法还是把它们撒在麻婆豆腐上。麻婆豆腐是一道经典川菜，由嫩豆腐、肉糜和浓汤般稠滑的酱料组成。当美国在2005年取消对花椒的禁令时，我高兴极了。

A few years later, while researching my 'Asian Tofu' cookbook, I traveled to Chengdu, the capital of China's Sichuan province. The peppercorns were plentiful at every market I visited, often displayed alongside chilies, their ma la partner. It was a sultry September, and a snack of dan dan noodles seasoned with salty preserved vegetables, perky Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil kept me alert in the intense humidity.

数年后，为了研究“亚洲豆腐”菜谱，我前往中国四川省的省会城市成都。在那里，每到一处市场，都可以看到花椒的身影，而且常与做麻辣菜必备的另一种原料──辣椒并排摆放。当时正值闷热的九月，以咸冬菜、丰裕的花椒和辣椒油等为佐料的四川特色小吃担担面，令我无时无刻不意识到空气中的闷热和潮湿。

One family I visited used Sichuan peppercorns in most everything they served me. To finish a stir-fry, they sprinkled on a bit of the ground spice just as if it were black or white pepper. The family's version of mapo tofu relied solely on hua jiao for seasoning. For my taste, the result had too much ma and not enough la─an object lesson in the importance of striking the right balance between chilies and peppercorns. One of their kitchen drawers held a jar of ground peppercorns moistened by oil─a brilliant idea, because the oil captured the spice's zing and kept it always at the ready. The family used this paste to season all kinds of salads and sauces.

在那里，我拜访的一户人家招待我的几乎每道菜里都用了花椒。作为一盘炒菜的最后一道工序，他们像用黑胡椒或者白胡椒一样，把花椒粉撒了上去。这户人家做的麻婆豆腐，佐料全是花椒。我品尝后的感觉是，麻味有余、辣味不足，这个反面案例凸显出正确掌握花椒和辣椒搭配比例的重要性。在他们的一个厨房抽屉里，有一罐油浸花椒粉──这真是个好主意，因为油能够吸收花椒的植物精髓，使之随时可被取用。这户人家会把这种油浸花椒粉做出的酱料当成佐料，搭配在各种凉拌菜和酱汁中。

In other encounters, Sichuan peppercorns played a less obvious role. One restaurant served its signature duck with a fragrant chili mixture that contained just a hint of the spice's citrusy brightness and numbing edge. A locally made candy had a suggestion of it too. I was inspired to experiment in countless new ways─all the more so because nowadays, Sichuan peppercorns are readily obtained Stateside, not only in Chinese markets but online, at sources like kalustyans.com. I've even seen them at Whole Foods. Looking back at my years on the wrong side of the law, it seems almost too easy.

其他很多时候，花椒的作用则没有如此明显。我在一家餐厅点了他们的招牌鸭，里面用了多种香辣佐料，花椒的一丝橘香和辛麻隐藏其中，几乎难以察觉。当地产的一种糖果似乎也含有花椒成分。受此鼓舞，我尝试了无数种使用花椒的新方法──尤其是像现在这种好时候，因为现在在美国可以很容易买到花椒了，除了华人市场，还可以在kalustyans.com等网站进行网购。甚至在全食超市(Whole Foods)，我都看到过花椒。总之，与以前我不得不私藏花椒的岁月相比，现在简直太方便了。

Mapo Tofu (Spicy Tofu With Beef and Sichuan Peppercorn)

麻婆豆腐（以花椒、肉糜为佐料的辣豆腐）

You can find Chinese chili bean sauce at Asian markets. The label will read dou ban jiang or toban djan; the word Pixian signals an excellent version made in Sichuan.

中国豆瓣酱可在亚洲市场买到，标签上写着“dou ban jiang”或“toban djan”。带“郫县”(Pixian)标识的，是产自四川的高级豆瓣酱。

Total Time: 30 minutes Serves: 4

总用时：30分钟 份量：4人份

Ingredients

原料：

16 ounces medium-firm tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes

16盎司（约454克）中等硬度的豆腐，切成0.5英寸（约1.3厘米）见方的小块

1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn

1茶匙花椒

3 tablespoons canola oil

3汤匙芥花籽油

6 ounces ground beef or pork, roughly chopped

6盎司（约170克）绞牛肉或绞猪肉，切碎

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

1茶匙生姜，切成碎末

1½ teaspoons chili flakes

1 1/2盎司（约43克）茶匙辣椒片

1 tablespoon fermented black beans, optional

1汤匙黑豆豆鼓，可选

2½ to 3 tablespoons Chinese chili bean sauce

2.5-3汤匙豆瓣酱

1 generous teaspoon sugar

1大茶匙糖

2 teaspoons soy sauce

2茶匙酱油

1 1/3 cups boiling water

1 1/3杯开水

Salt, to taste

盐，适量

2 large scallions, cut on the diagonal into 1½-inch pieces

2棵大葱，按对角线切成1.5英寸（约3.8厘米）的小块

1½ tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in 3 tablespoons water

1 1/2汤匙玉米淀粉，加汤匙水拌匀

What To Do

做法：

1. Put tofu in a heatproof bowl. Bring a kettle of water to a rolling boil. Remove water from heat, then pour over tofu to cover. Let sit 15 minutes.

1. 把豆腐放入耐高温的碗内。将一壶水烧开后，倒入放豆腐的碗中，浸15分钟。

2. Meanwhile, in a large wok or skillet, toast peppercorns over medium heat until fragrant and slightly darkened, 2-3 minutes. Let cool briefly, then pound with a mortar and pestle or grind in a coffee or spice grinder. Set aside. Drain tofu and set near stove.

2. 同时，用炒锅或煎锅中火煸炒花椒2-3分钟，至闻到香味、颜色略深。稍加冷却后，放在臼中用杵捣碎或用咖啡豆或香料研磨机磨碎，备用。将豆腐沥干，放在炉灶旁。

3. Heat oil in wok or skillet over high heat. Add beef, using a wooden spoon to crumble into small pieces. Stir-fry until cooked through, about 2 minutes. Add ginger, chili flakes, fermented black beans (if using) and chili sauce. Cook, stirring constantly, until beef is a rich reddish-brown color and oil is slightly red, about 2 minutes. Add sugar and soy sauce, stir to combine, then add tofu. Gently stir or shake wok to combine without breaking up tofu.

3. 在炒锅或煎锅中倒入食用油，大火加热后，倒入牛肉，用木勺将肉捣开。翻炒约2分钟，至肉熟透。加入生姜、辣椒片、黑豆豆鼓（可选）和豆瓣酱。继续不停翻炒约2分钟，直至牛肉变成黑红色，油略变红。加入糖和酱油，拌匀，再加入豆腐。轻炒，或边炒边抖动炒锅，防止豆腐碎裂。

4. Pour in boiling water. Bring to a vigorous simmer, and cook to allow tofu to absorb flavors, about 3 minutes. Season with salt or sugar to taste.

4. 倒入开水。炖至汤汁收敛、豆腐入味，约3分钟。视个人口味加入适量的盐或糖。

5. Add scallions and stir to combine. Pour enough dissolved cornstarch into wok to thicken sauce. (You may not need to use it all.) Add reserved ground peppercorn, stir once more and transfer to a shallow bowl or divide among four serving dishes. Serve immediately with hot rice.

5. 加葱拌匀。倒入适量玉米淀粉糊，使汤汁浓稠。（事先准备的淀粉糊也可能用不完。）加入准备好的花椒，再次拌匀，起锅，将菜倒入一个浅底碗或按四人份分别倒入碟中。配米饭趁热享用。

─Adapted from 'Asian Tofu'

──选摘自《亚洲豆腐》(Asian Tofu)

Chilled Celery and Sichuan Peppercorn Salad

凉拌麻辣芹菜

Total Time: 30 minutes Serves: 4

总用时：30分钟 份量：4人份

Ingredients

原料：

5 ribs celery, cut into thin sticks 3-inches long

5根芹菜，切成3英寸（约7.6厘米）长的芹菜丝

3-inch length of carrot, cut into thin sticks

3英寸（约7.6厘米）长的胡萝卜，亦切成丝

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ 茶匙盐

¼ teaspoon sugar

¼ 茶匙糖

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1茶匙麻油

¼ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn paste (see recipe below)

¼ 茶匙花椒酱（详见下文食谱）

What To Do

做法：

1. Place celery and carrots in a heatproof bowl. Pour boiling water over vegetables to cover. Let sit until vegetables soften slightly, 2 minutes. Drain under cold running water. Set aside.

1. 将芹菜丝和胡萝卜丝放入一个耐高温的碗内。倒入沸水直至淹没菜丝。浸泡2分钟，待菜丝稍稍软化。用冷水冲凉，沥干备用。

2. Wipe bowl dry, then add sugar, sesame oil, peppercorn paste and vegetables. Toss vegetables to coat. Refrigerate at least 20 minutes. Before serving, season with additional salt, sugar or Sichuan peppercorn paste to taste.

2. 将碗擦干，加入糖、麻油、花椒酱和菜丝。抖动碗，让酱料覆盖到菜丝表面。放入冰箱冷藏至少20分钟。食用前，视个人口味再加少许盐、糖或花椒酱。

Dan Dan Noodles

担担面

You can find Chinese noodles and ya cai at Asian markets─though spaghetti and dill pickles are fine stand-ins.

中国面条和芽菜可在亚洲市场买到，当然，用意大利面和腌黄瓜替代也不错。

Total Time: 20 minutes Serves: 4-6 as a starter, 2-3 as a main course

总用时：20分钟 份量：4-6人份（前菜），2-3人份（主菜）

Ingredients

原料：

½ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn paste (see recipe below)

1/2茶匙花椒酱（详见下文食谱）

1½ tablespoons Chinese sesame paste or 4 teaspoons tahini plus 1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 ½ 汤匙芝麻糊，或，4茶匙芝麻酱加1茶匙麻油

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3汤匙酱油

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1汤匙老抽

1½ tablespoons chili oil

1 1/2汤匙辣椒油

Salt, to taste

盐，适量

2 teaspoons canola oil

2茶匙芥花籽油

4 dried chilies, such as árbol, slit lengthwise and seeds removed

4个辣椒，例如狭长的阿宝辣椒(arbol)，纵向切开、去籽

½ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns

1/2茶匙花椒

4 ounces ground beef

4盎司（约113克）碎牛肉

2 tablespoons ya cai (Sichuan preserved vegetable) or finely chopped dill pickle

2汤匙芽菜（一种四川腌菜）或切碎的莳萝泡菜

1 pound fresh Chinese noodles or 12 ounces dried Chinese noodles

1磅（约454克）新鲜面条或12盎司（约340克）干面条

1 scallion, green parts only, thinly sliced

1棵葱，只取绿色部分，切成薄片

What To Do

做法：

1. Whisk together peppercorn paste, sesame paste, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, dark soy sauce and chili oil. Season with salt to taste. Divide sauce among serving bowls and set aside.

1. 将花椒、芝麻糊、1汤匙酱油、老抽和辣椒油搅拌起来。按个人口味加入适量盐。按用餐人数将搅拌均匀的酱料分别放入碗中，待用。

2. Heat oil in a wok or skillet over medium heat. Add chilies and peppercorns and stir-fry until fragrant, 15 seconds. Add meat and ya cai, using a wooden spoon to crumble meat. Add remaining soy sauce and stir-fry until meat is cooked through, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

2. 在炒锅或煎锅中倒入食用油，中火加热。加入辣椒和花椒，煸炒爆香，15秒。加入碎牛肉和芽菜，用木勺将肉捣开。加入剩余的酱油，炒至肉熟透，约2分钟。备用。

3. Cook noodles as directed on package. Drain under warm running water to remove excess starch. Divide hot noodles among bowls with sauce. Top with meat and scallions. Invite guests to mix before eating.

3. 根据包装上的指示煮面条。煮熟后捞起，用温水过一遍，以去除多余的淀粉。把热面条分别盛入之前分配好的酱碗中。在面条顶部撒上葱和炒好的肉末。提醒客人在享用前先搅拌一下，好让面条入味。

Chili-Sichuan Peppercorn Mix

自制麻辣调料（辣椒加花椒）

Use this to dip or garnish poached chicken, fried tofu or steamed vegetables. You can find Sichuan peppercorn and other ingredients at Asian markets or at online sources such as ethnicfoodsco.com.

该自制调料既可当蘸料又可作佐料，配白切鸡、炸豆腐、清蒸菜等食用。花椒及其他原料可在亚洲市场或kalustyans.com等网站买到。

Total Time: 5 minutes Makes: 1/3 cup

总用时：5分钟 份量：1/3杯

Ingredients

原料：

3 tablespoons gochu garu (Korean red pepper powder)

3汤匙韩国红辣椒粉

1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn, toasted and ground

1茶匙花椒，煸炒后磨成粉

¾ teaspoon toasted white sesame seeds

3/4茶匙烤白芝麻

½ teaspoon sea salt

1/2茶匙海盐

2 tablespoons canola or peanut oil

2汤匙芥花籽油或花生油

½ teaspoon sugar

1/2茶匙糖

What To Do

做法：

1. In a small bowl, combine Korean red pepper powder, Sichuan peppercorn, sesame seeds and salt. Put the oil in a small saucepan or skillet and heat over medium-high heat until just smoking.

1. 将韩国红辣椒粉、花椒、芝麻和盐倒入小碗中混合。将油倒入小平底锅或煎锅，中到大火加热，至略出油烟为止。

2. Pour half of the oil over chili powder mixture. Expect foaming action. Give a quick stir with a spoon. Pour on remaining oil, repeat stirring to moisten ingredients. Lastly, stir in sugar.

2. 将一半的热油倒入辣椒粉混合物中。混合物会起泡，用勺子快速搅拌。这时再倒入剩余的油，不停搅拌，让原料浸透。最后，拌入糖。

3. Let cool a few minutes, taste and adjust the flavor with extra salt or sugar. The mixture is ready to use. Or, keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days or refrigerate for up to a week.

3. 冷却几分钟后，尝下味道，视情况适量加盐或加糖。至此，该调料制作完成，当即便可使用。或者，可将该调料装入密封容器中，常温保存时限为两天，冷藏保存时限为一周。